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Routes in Sport Wall

Calling Wolfgang T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heart's Desire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Andy DeKlerk
Page Views: 471 total, 7/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jan 13, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

For some reason, I hate to give tons of stars to every single route at Index, but I really have little choice sometimes. This is another gem with a storied recent history (see my comment below). A somewhat scruffy start with some natural gear leads to a steep, aesthetic face. Sustained, slightly runout 5.11 leads past three bolts and a gear placement or two to a stance. The difficulties increase from here until a mind-melting Index friction crux is encountered. The Cramer guide notes that temperature is a concern and this is no idle observation: either wait for a cool day or keep some liquid nitrogen handy for this one. (REAL .12a)

There's a second pitch to this climb too. I believe it's been redpointed by the FA's (Kevin Newell, Chris Henson), so I'll describe it as well. From the belay atop P1, execute a difficult face crux that goes right a little and back left. Well bolted, but don't fall on your belayer! The climbing relents for a short bit before another crux. It's possibly easier than the first section, but only if you're tall. As I am definitely not, it took me awhile to figure out. The rest of the pitch climbs neat and varied rock up to the large ledge above.

If the first pitch is Andy DeKlerk .12a/b, the second pitch is about Andy DeKlerk .11b. That's not very accurate, though, because P2 is probably around Index .12b. What does that mean? I dunno. Go try it.

Location

This is the second route left of Davis Holland, beginning in a scruffy looking crack/ledge system before departing right onto a steep, clean bolted face.

Protection

Bolted except for the very beginning and a 20 foot section in the middle of the route. Bring cams to red C4 and small to medium nuts, plus 12 quickdraws. If a PG/R rating were available, the first bolted section probably would deserve it. The anchor at the top may appear strange but it is a 1/2" bolt chained vertically to an eye bolt with a gigantic quick link on it: you could probably hang an aircraft carrier from this rig.

Photos

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Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
The original bolt hangers were aluminum Kong/Bonatti hangers from the 90's. Coupled with the steel bolt, the aluminum corroded preferentially into a dangerous wafer cake of metal that, as a good friend of mine learned, wouldn't even hold body weight. After hanging on the third bolt about 60-65 feet off the ground the hanger peeled off, sending him flying. The next hanger broke as well and all of a sudden, the ground was coming up fast. His belayer must have reeled in some slack from this one, because the first bolt is certainly less than half the height of the third. Somehow, the final bolt caught his fall and the result was a chipped elbow bone from hitting a ledge on the initial section of the climb. The bolts have since been replaced, but the remnants of the old hangers are still there to teach us about an important metallurgical property known as galvanic corrosion. Jan 13, 2012