Heart of the Sportsman

Some historical context: 

During the Spring of 2019, I began a mission to renovate the mythical Sport Wall, whose creation and zenith ended abruptly around 90/91’. In the ensuing years and decades, many would amble by the Sport Wall without pause, on their way to more popular routes like Heaven’s Gate, Dana’s Arch or Sideshow. But, for the dyed in the wool Index zealot, its obscurity could not be ignored, its mysteries beckoning from under the layers of moss and lichen. Larry Kemp’s iconic image of Max Dufford clinging to the steep granite of Heart's Desire inspired us, but most (including me) were far too intimidated to actually attempt any of these impossible looking climbs, & too busy ticking off classics at the lower walls. A simple survey from the base begs the question, where are the holds? My first glimpse of the SW was around 95’, and like many, I saw it on rappel after doing DHLA. Looking down, you could now see lots of holds, but they weren’t all that inspiring, and many faced odd directions; and I could barely fathom the sorcery required to succeed on any one of these technical outings.

As of 2019, I had yet to do a single route on the wall, and thought it high time to follow in the footsteps of my predecessors, the architects and former sportsmen like Andy DeKlerk, Greg Child, Keith Lenard and Randy Farris. Throughout that Summer, I moved slowly across the wall with my static, upgrading bolts, scrubbing, & keeping an eye for new route potential. It was clear that the original routes could easily link with upper pitches, much like “Straight to Voicemail” which feeds from Calling Wolfgang.  

Once I ticked off the old routes, I focused in on a beautiful 35 meter panel of virgin rock between the anchor of Heart’s Desire and the DHLA ledge system. In short order, Matt Carroll and myself cleaned and bolted what became “Lifeforce” 12d, which I sent Spring 2020 with a green light from Matt, who was at the time questing in Yosemite to free Golden Gate. Local guide and crusher Tavish came out to belay me. He also put in a solid effort flash attempt on Heart’s Desire, falling at the very end. 

Later that Summer, Matt returned and we teamed up with Chris Spalding to clean & bolt the final "21st Century Sportsmen" pitch. Initially, it was conceived as two pitches up the gorgeous 50 meter headwall that splits a pyramidal shield between the fourth pitch of Wildest dreams and Lovin' Arms. However, we concluded that linking these two would be best and avoid a less comfortable hanging belay. We placed a midway anchor to facilitate rappel, or give people the option of breaking this monster pitch down into 2 pitches.  

Fast forward: After traveling with my family for a year during the Pandemic, I returned with Chris in October 2021, and was close to the top when disaster struck. Within 20 feet of the top, with only 5.10 climbing remaining, I fell off when a hold broke unexpectedly. This was the last good day of the year and then it rained for 6 months. 2022 came and went. I was on to other projects, Chris focused on Little Si, and Matt had moved to California.  

Like many things in life, there is a season that brings certain things into focus, and this Spring I found renewed energy to get back and finish what had become a long drawn out process. On the evening of June 1st I scraped my way to the top, leading every pitch first try, with Jeff Perry providing support as I pulled to the final anchor in failing light, & skin in tatters. In the end it wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t that hard either. 

The final 50 meter headwall went at 12b/c and involved lots of screaming, as I managed to climb myself into numerous contorted positions, which only screaming seemed to help. Many apologies to the town folk whom probably thought someone was dying. While most of the 2nd pitch is sub 11-, the final slab is quite hard, and i’d even call it 13a (compared to crux of Grand Wall), especially with 100’ of cord pulling you down as you tenuously maneuver the crux 80 degree slab. Perhaps being tall will help, though Chris found it quite challenging, and he is both kinda tall and climbs 5.13.  Whatever, climb it if you can. Better to climb HOTS on a cool day unless you have skin of steel. If you find it a little dirty in places…just scrub some more, and leave it better than you found it. I’d love to see it repeated and enjoyed, but I’m not holding my breath, as I’m sure the Sportsmen of yesterday certainly didn’t hold their breath. Don’t worry about training on the moon board for this one, as there are no guns required, just gumption, strong toes, and thick skin, and of course a little luck!!

P1)  "Heart's Desire" 35m 12c

P2) "Lifeforce" 35m 12d. Climb up and left of HD belay . 2-3 alpine draws bare minimum. Be gentle on the handlebar thread. 

P3)  "21st Century Sportsmen". After moving the belay over to the bush (use 1x bolt at the base of the route and also backup bolt ledge below from Wildest dreams) climb the 50m headwall.  12c

Descend: with a 70m rope 4x raps using intermediate anchor on the headwall. Or, rap straight down through Scatterlings which may be possible with 60m rope, though I have yet to try. 

 Bolts. Bring 15-18 draws depending on if you want to link the final headwall pitch. Suggest 70m rope and 

a few long runners.