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Routes in Lake Mead Buttress
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Anti-Vax Crack S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bone Collector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Booster Direct S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Booster Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Contagion S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Herd Immunity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Killer Nano Robot Infection S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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La Madre Flu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lake Mead Buttress Original Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Land Before Time S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mr. Bones' Wild Ride T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Mutation S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Patient Zero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sleeper S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Super Spreader 35 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tectonic Tango S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Side Story S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 550 ft (167 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.2169, -115.36439 |
| FA: | Sam Boyce and Lani Chapko, Nov 2023 |
| Page Views: | 1,207 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Boyce on Jan 19, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Justin Johnsen |
Description
For more information, photos, and topos, see the new guidebook for mulitpitch sport routes in Red Rock NCA and surrounding areas!
https://www.theclimbingguides.com/product-page/red-rock-multi-pitch-sport-climbs
P1 85’ 5.8 This route starts on the same first pitch as “The Land Before Time”. Start up the obvious crack. After clipping the third bolt, step right onto the face with an interesting traverse to get you established. Climb the high quality face with some chert to a roof that takes you up to the belay ledge
Move belay 400’ to the left on the massive ledge, past the base of Herd Immunity to a bolted, low angle rib. There is a single belay bolt to mark the start of the second pitch.
P2 100’ 5.6 Climb a low angle rib past some choss to a good ledge to belay.
P3 100’ 5.9+ Start up and right traversing under a roof. Eventually pull the roof and head straight up an excellent featured slab to a hanging belay between two roofs. It is possible to link into the next pitch for an incredible mega pitch to avoid the hanging belay.
P4 60’ 5.10a Pull up a series of steep bulges with awesome movement and great rock. Belay on a comfortable ledge in an alcove.
P5 70’ 5.8 Exit the alcove on the right, after an initial steep section, climb easy low angle, but sharp rock to a massive ledge below a choss band.
P6 30’ 5.10a Start up a short band of chossy blue rock, leading to the bolt line on the right. Climb through two steep roofs to a good ledge. This pitch has large semi-dynamic moves and can feel hard for the grade for short people. It is possible to aid the hard moves.
P6v 30’ 5.11 The bolt line on the left is a fair amount harder. The climbing is chossy, sharp and kind of unpleasant, nor recommended.
P7 100’ 5.7 Head up and left on broken terrain. After about 40’, gain an amazing slab that takes you straight to the summit!
Descent: Rap the route with a 60M rope. If there are people climbing behind you, consider rappelling down “Herd Immunity” (70M rope required), or doing the standard walk off descent. If doing the walk off, plan on carrying everything up and over as the walk off puts you out quite far from the base.
Location
Approach: Park on Kettle Ridge Drive. Pick up the Cleod 9 mt bike trail. Follow this to the junction with the Secret Menu Trail. Turn right on secret menu, follow this trail until you reach a feint cairned climbers path bellow the buttress. This takes you to the base of contagion. Head left around the ridge crest. WSS shares the same first pitch with Land Before Time. Start up just to the right of obvious cracks/gully.
GPS for the first pitch of the route (36.2176540, -115.3659540) - from the large ledge after climbing pitch 1 of Land Before Time or La Madre Flu.
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