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Lake Mead Buttress Original Route
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 1.8 from 4
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Routes in Lake Mead Buttress
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Anti-Vax Crack S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bone Collector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Booster Direct S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Booster Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Contagion S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Herd Immunity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Killer Nano Robot Infection S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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La Madre Flu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lake Mead Buttress Original Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Land Before Time S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mr. Bones' Wild Ride T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Mutation S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Patient Zero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sleeper S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Super Spreader 35 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tectonic Tango S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Side Story S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Dan Briley and Andrew Fulton, Mar 1997 |
| Page Views: | 1,649 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | SenorDB on Feb 13, 2017 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Justin Johnsen |
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Description
Just to the right of the prow is a crack/seam system that starts from a horizontal crack 20' off the ground. There's a baby angle piton in the horizontal where the seam starts, which is also the first piece of protection. Climb this for a hundred feet or so until easier climbing leads left onto the shallow prow. This is the hardest and most committing pitch of the route, the rest of the pitches are 5.8 or less. Follow the prow, sometimes jogging left, to the top. We did this in four pitches but it can be broken up into more. All of the belays have a decent ledge and the multitude of crack/seam systems offer more than one way to the next belay, so choose carefully. The climbing is adventurous with some run outs and a fair amount loose rock spread out over the solid stuff.
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