Type: Sport, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 36.2169, -115.36439
FA: Gary Newmeyer, Annie Ashenfelter, and Brittany Venci, Mar 2025
Page Views: 132 total · 12/month
Shared By: Gee Monet on Mar 9, 2025
Admins: Luke EF, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Sleeper is an old abandoned route that has lain dormant until now. The original line stopped most of the way up pitch 1 with no anchor - so you can assume it was done ground up. The route has been extended & reworked, though a few o.g. bolts remain. It now provides two pitches of good climbing with short but techy cruxes & a little pump along the way. The cruxes are especially fun to figure out.

P1: 5.11+, 36m, 16 draws. Mosey up the featured slab & into the corner. Crux moves up the corner, through steep huecos, & across a slab to a rest at an overhanging crack. Up the crack to the anchor at a small stance. You could back clean a couple of draws pretty easily so 14 would be reasonable. Likely I'll pull a couple more of these old bolts in the near future.

P2: 5.11d, 30m, 11 draws (+2 fixed). Follow the bolts up through a steep section to a slab & a rest where the holds suddenly get a lot smaller & all face sideways. Fire a short, tech-nasty crux & finish left to the anchor. Lower or belay here.

We climbed two more moderate pitches to the summit & deemed them not worthy so we did not bolt them.

Descent Suggest change

Rap / lower. Watch yer ends on P1.

Protection Suggest change

14-16 draws (a few longer draws helpful)

1x 70m rope

Location Suggest change

Right side of LMB. Purple bolts up a sweeping slab.

Photos

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