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Ledges to Lichen
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in New Policy Wall
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Ledges to Lichen T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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New Policy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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One To The First Power T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Orange Prickadilly S,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sneaker-Doodle T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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This Ain't No Place For You Algebra T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Traditional Policy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 35.2348, -81.273 |
| FA: | FA & FFA: Luke Romens, January 2024 |
| Page Views: | 139 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Let Luke Lead on Jan 8, 2024 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Description
This route crosses over Sneaker-Doodle where it traverses. Start at the base going straight up the face and when you get to a big ledge you don't traverse right like you would for Sneaker-Doodle, instead you just continue going straight up the wall. Top out by the tree above you/to the right of Traditional Policy.
Easy climbing up to the big ledge, but then kicks up a couple grades the last ~25 feet with one or two crimpy moves paired with smaller foot holds in the middle. After the 5.7-5.8ish moves you should cruise to the top. It definitely has some lichen on this portion of the route, but the holds are clean and it should clean up with more traffic as well.
Pro is there but finding the solid/good rock for good pro takes a little experience. You'll solo until the big ledge.
You can technically TR this, but the scramble up isn't great and you'll want A LOT of anchor extension or have a few biner/rope guards. Watch out for briars.
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