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Routes in New Policy Wall

New Policy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One To The First Power T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Prickadilly S,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sneaker-Doodle T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
This Ain't No Place For You Algebra T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Traditional Policy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Gus Glitch??
Page Views: 525 total, 7/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 14, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Start in the gully (hopefully the briers won't eat you)and follow the bolted line. This climb consists of sharp pockets and vertical cracks on which you can lay back.

At the top you have the option to gun it to the anchor direct (harder) or climb out right and traverse back left to the anchor (easier but run-out/heady).

Location

This route is located right of New Policy (5.10d) on New Policy Wall. Climb up the gully (may have briers in the summer)to start your climb. You can stem to get the first draw pre-clipped but it really shouldn't be to bad if you are a solid 5.11 climber (if you can't stem up and clip, there is usually a wooden stick clip around).

Protection

Three bolts to a rusted cold shuts anchor that can be backed up with gear.

Photos

Climbed this route today unaware that it was a 5.11-. Buddy and I decided to give her a try, Lots of thorns at the base but easy to get around. first three bolts are fairly tame, the last bolt was a challenge. was able to on site it with some good arm pump. Definatly helps if you are taller,

Bolts have a small bit of rust, left anchor at the top looks fairly new and the right anchor is solid.

rock is still very sharp and rough on the hands, either go super early in the morning or go in the afternoon once the sun has gone to the other side of the mountain. Aug 13, 2017
wes calkins  
 
This route is good for the length. the movement all seemed fairly secure. I was able to get a few fist jams in some fissures and get depumped about half way thru the route. Dec 28, 2012
Eduardo Ramirez
Columbia, SC
 
Eduardo Ramirez   Columbia, SC
 
Bennett Harris
Charlotte, NC
Bennett Harris   Charlotte, NC
I think this route is called "Orange Prickadilly" I was talking to Gus a few weeks ago and he described it to the tee and said that was what it was called. Jan 28, 2012
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
Glue in bolts are a marked improvement over what was there before. Whip with confidence. Jan 26, 2012
Andrew Kucera
  5.11a PG13
Andrew Kucera  
  5.11a PG13
very thin sharp as hell crimpers, glue in bolt shuts. no bueno...pg13

remember crowder's rock sucks, don't fall on lead. Nov 27, 2011