Home Brew

This is a 5 pitch 500' trad climb with great rock the whole way, barely any choss anywhere on the route.

We cleaned it up, so the crack is clear and takes great protection the whole way up.

Pitch 1: 5.7, 150'. Climb up the plateaus to the crack out left, and then follow the crack right to hand jamming section all the way up to the overhang section with great anchor building spot. You can protect with a standard rack 0.1-4". You can walk off to the right down 4th Class downclimbing if needed.

Pitch 2: 5.9-, 50'. From the anchors, go left and up for an exposed first move (a 5" cam will make you feel extra protected but is not necessary, this is the hardest move on the route), hand jam, chickenwing or do whatever works for you to get over the bulge, then go up another wide crack to the second plateau, and build another solid anchor. Protect with larger cams 0.75 - 3 (4 or 5 if you want).

Walk up and right to a solid area where can stand freely to belay if you prefer. You can downclimb if you want (the rocks are a tad loose on downclimb, but it is easy 5th Class).

Pitch 3: 5.8, 100' ish. Head up the left corner on the right side of the crag to another overhang. This is very protectable. It has a very sport climb feeling. Then find easy climbing after the overhang, 5.6ish, and go up to the next plateau with a big boulder that also has great anchor building options.

Pitch 4: 5.3-5.7, 150'. You can run the first section out over the drop, and get to the crack out right 5.3 and then the wide crack up to the boulder that will take pieces well and gets better and better as you go up higher (you can also go to the left crack, but it is larger than the right). Protect with large cams 2 and 3 (4 and 5 if wanted but are not needed).

Pitch 5: 5.7, 50'. Choose left, middle, or right. All relatively are easy but require more delicate footwork than the rest of the climb. The anchors are all over the place up top. Protect with small cams 0.1 - 1".

Walk off the back to the right if you left stuff at the base.

From the base of the crack on Bush League Bros., walk from on the Wigwam trailhead westward. You can see a crack running up the first long pitch (see the pictures). The base of the climb is hidden by trees, but there is a solid path along the bottom from north or south.

A standard rack with a 5" piece if you want to feel extra protected for first move of pitch 2.