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Routes in Bush League Buttress

Codependence Day T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face Full of Bush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poudini's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
User Friendly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Description

Bush League Buttress is located in the Wigwam Creek area of the South Platte. It is one of the prettiest areas in the South Platte. Looking south from the Wigwam Creek trailhead, a series of three rock slabs is visible. Bush League Buttress is the slab in the center. From the trailhead, go downhill, across a creek, and work overland up a drainage, then across the slope to the base of Bush League Buttress. Make your own trail. From the top of the buttress, the descent is to the left and then down easy slopes. Bush League Buttress faces northeast, making it ideal for a hot summer day. However, the exposure also contributes to a less clean rock than might be encountered in other South Platte venues. Currently, Peter Hubbel's South Platte - The Rock Climber's Guide, only lists three routes on this 600-foot buttress. There is obviously potential for more routes due to many crack systems.

Getting There

From Deckers, continue north on Highway 67 until you reach Forest Road FR 211 aka Matakat Creek Road. Turn left. There will also be signs for Cheeseman Reservoir, Lost Valley Ranch, and Goose Creek Campground. Drive 2 miles to a junction with FR 211 and FR 211A. Turn right. Continue 1.1 miles to the junction with FR 211 and FR 560. Turn right and follow the signs to Wigwam Creek trail, Wellington Lake, and the Flying G Ranch. Drive 1.5 miles to a fork in the road with a sign for Wellington Lake and the Flying G Ranch. Take the right fork, following the sign to Wellington Lake. Drive for 4 miles to an intersection with FR 543. Turn left, following a sign marked Wigwam Creek trailhead. Follow the road to a parking lot at its end. Carefully secure all valuables. This is a remote place and people have been known to do naughty things. Perhaps this is a good place to discuss gun control, steel on target that is.

Per Brad Mills: Just a few corrections. The final road you want to be on from Forest Service Road 560 is 545 not 543. 543 is north of Buffalo Peak and the crag here is south of Buffalo Peak. Also of note, the Signage from Cheeseman is pretty sketchy, but the few signs are for Flying "J" Ranch pretty much keep right every chance you get till you reach 545 on the left.

An alternative route through less burn area is from Wellington Lake, take 560 (Stoney Pass Road) and head south through some private property then right onto 545 maybe 5 or 6 miles. 560 is not as nice of a road the road from Cheeseman, but it goes through unburned forest.

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Just a few corrections. The final road you want to be on from Forest Service Road 560 is 545 not 543. 543 is north of Buffalo Peak and the crag here is south of Buffalo Peak. Also of note, the Signage from Cheeseman is pretty sketchy, but the few signs are for Flying "J" Ranch pretty much keep right every chance you get till you reach 545 on the left.

An alternative route through less burn area is from Wellington Lake, take 560 (Stoney Pass Road) and head south through some private property then right onto 545 maybe 5 or 6 miles. 560 is not as nice of a road the road from Cheeseman, but it goes through unburned forest.

The aspen regrowth is coming in pretty thick on the approach, downed trees from the fire also make it a bit more of an adventure. Lots of places to get a leash snagged, so leave the pooch unless yours is more obedient than mine.

May 16, 2010

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