Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||C. T. and Peter Hubbel, 1980s|
|Page Views:||102 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Julian Smith on Apr 26, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionUser Friendly ascends the left side of the Bush League Buttress. Approach the bottom of the cliff and trend uphill to the left. Look for a gigantic left facing corner system. 20 feet left of the left facing corner system, look for a smaller right facing corner system that leads up to a roof and continues upwards as a right facing corner system.
Pitch 1 - 5.9 Climb the right-facing, corner system. The roof and crack above are the supposed crux of the route. Continue up until you find a good spot to belay. Either belay on the corner system somewhere or continue with pitch 2.
Pitch 2 - 5.7 Continue up the corner system to its top. Step left and go up. Step back to the right on a short but exposed traverse. Continue straight up to belay on lower angled rock.
Pitch 3 - 5.8 Climb up above the belay to a crack that goes out to the arete on the left. Climb the crack and pull onto the arete. Run out easier ground until you can belay on top of the arete.
Unrope and scramble upwards over moderate terrain to a ledge with a tree on the right side. Look for two bolts left an up.
Pitch 4 - 5.8 death on a stick - This is the meat and potatoes. Climb up and left from the ledge. Clip a quarter inch bolt and climb over ever more difficult slab to reach another quarter inch bolt. This is it for the entire pitch. Hope you ate your Wheaties or love run-out slab. Climb on faith alone above the 2nd bolt to reach thank-God holds. The rest of the pitch, while absent of gear, is not noticeable. Belay from a tree.
Run out the rope over easy terrain to the top. Trend left to a gully between Bush League Buttress and Rock Island. This gully will take you back to the base of the route.
The South Platte Climber's Guide by Peter Hubbel - 1997 gives this route 2 stars and does not say anything about the slab pitch with the discomforting run-out. The route deserves only 1 star for quality.