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Routes in Bush League Buttress

Codependence Day T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face Full of Bush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poudini's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
User Friendly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Brian Asbury, Richard Berk
Page Views: 89 total, 0/month
Shared By: richard berk on Feb 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Codependence Day starts 20 feet or so down and right of User Friendly. You should be directly below the offwidth described below.

Pitch 1 - move up and left following discontinuous cracks with sparse but descent pro. Eventually move into the crack in the right facing corner. Continue up corner crack another 20 feet-ish and belay. (5.9)

Pitch 2 - move up and right to join the crack out on the face. Continue up the face crack to large ledge. Belay on ledge. (5.8)

Pitch 3 - move right along the ledge to join the 3rd pitch of Bush League up through a crack and corner system with a couple of tricky moves. (5.8)

Our original goal was to follow an overhanging crack straight up from the ledge at the top of pitch 2. The crack is obvious from the base. It turned out to be overhanging flaring offwidth - and too hard for me. (5.11ish?)

The 4th pitches of Bush League and User Friendly are actually on a separate rock above and behind the base rock. You can descend from the top the third pitches with a couple of raps from trees to the right or follow the gully down to your left. The gully is 4th class (maybe a bit of 5th) until the last 15 feet. At that point I've always set up a retrievable sling and rope.

I thought this route was a little better than user friendly, at least the first two pitches. It would be really cool with the direct 3rd pitch.

Protection

Small stuff to 4 inches.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 R
The whole crack system goes as a single pitch WITHOUT climbing the corner until the last 15 feet. This is done as a single 70 meter pitch to the top of the corner. 1 set small cams, 2 each cams from 1.5-3.5" plus a single set of nuts and lots of slings.
The climb IS runout in spots and there are some loose holds. This is not for the faint of heart. May 29, 2012