Type: Trad, 125 ft (38 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 35.12011, -111.93485
FA: FOS?
Page Views: 193 total · 7/month
Shared By: j mo on Dec 15, 2023
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Warning Access Issue: Access via Garland Prairie Closed- Use Woody Mountain Road DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route gets a brief honorable mention in Toula's Cheap Way to Fly guidebook. Though somewhat involved getting to it, the rock quality, climbing, and position are all pretty good. Those with little fingers will have an easier time.

Start from a bushy ledge and bolted anchor. Climb up the corner past a couple of dubious chockstones, where steepens through a techy bulge using thin finger jams, flake jugs, and face moves. Continue with thin finger crack jamming to ledge. From the ledge, continue with short second pitch wandering to a few exit options, all relatively moderate.

Location Suggest change

Located just east of the Tralfamadore. Maybe 30 yards. About 125' from the rim to the belay, though the meat of the route is about 70 feet or so

Protection Suggest change

nuts, thin finger cams - mostly in the .3C4 range, as well as a .4 and .5. Belay at the ledge takes hand size pieces or from bolts of GPBF. Top anchor could consist of a 0.3-0.4 C4 and #1C4.

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