Type: Trad, Alpine, 575 ft (174 m), 5 pitches
GPS: 62.31165, 6.34254
FA: Tore Lundberg & Helge Standal, 1986
Page Views: 189 total · 7/month
Shared By: carla rosa on Sep 8, 2023
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

First route on Kruttårnet and an all-time classic. Clean cracks and sustained climbing through and through.

P1: climb a wide crack in a right-facing corner to a nice ledge, 45m, ~5.10a

P2: crux pitch; climb left facing flakes to a v-slot with a nice crack in the back, which pinches down to a right-arching flake. Follow this flake for 30 ft to a nice ledge and build a belay in the ledge above (using extension) just before the dihedral on pitch 3, 30m, ~5.10c/d

P3: mantle onto the ledge (where you built the belay) and step left into corner. Climb this corner (staying left) for 25m to a big ledge, ~5.10a

P4: from the ledge, climb up and right to an S-crack, staying right before another nice ledge, 45m, ~5.10b

P5: climb right then straight up on the top pinnacle, moving left into an exposed left-facing corner then trending right towards the top to the final bolted belay, 30m, ~5.10b

From the top make four 30m rappels back to the base - tie knots! 

Location Suggest change

Follow the approach as per the main Kruttårnet formation. Iriss starts on the south face 

Protection Suggest change

Full rack, #4 is useful. All natural belays except for the last

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