Iriss
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 575 ft (174 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 62.31165, 6.34254 |
| FA: | Tore Lundberg & Helge Standal, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 189 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | carla rosa on Sep 8, 2023 |
| Admins: | Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
First route on Kruttårnet and an all-time classic. Clean cracks and sustained climbing through and through.
P1: climb a wide crack in a right-facing corner to a nice ledge, 45m, ~5.10a
P2: crux pitch; climb left facing flakes to a v-slot with a nice crack in the back, which pinches down to a right-arching flake. Follow this flake for 30 ft to a nice ledge and build a belay in the ledge above (using extension) just before the dihedral on pitch 3, 30m, ~5.10c/d
P3: mantle onto the ledge (where you built the belay) and step left into corner. Climb this corner (staying left) for 25m to a big ledge, ~5.10a
P4: from the ledge, climb up and right to an S-crack, staying right before another nice ledge, 45m, ~5.10b
P5: climb right then straight up on the top pinnacle, moving left into an exposed left-facing corner then trending right towards the top to the final bolted belay, 30m, ~5.10b
From the top make four 30m rappels back to the base - tie knots!



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