Crack on the Mossy Breast

With extensive cleaning, this route could be very good; on a par with Little Finger at Roger's Rock in upstate New York or Walk on the Wild Side in Joshua Tree. Even in its vegetated state, it's worth doing.

Start in the middle of the cliff below an obvious vertical crack system, the line of Bigogwe Crack. This spot is roughly 75 feet right of Bigogwe Boogie.

P1: Climb up along the right edge of the prominent crack, protected by a mix of old pins and 2016 (8mm/5/16") bolts. Nine fixed pieces total. Bring one small wired nut for a bolt with a missing hanger and one shoulder length sling to tie off a piton. 30m to rap anchors. 5.6+/5.7-

 P2: Diagonal up and left, staying just under a sea of vegetation, past eight bolts to a rappel anchor. Bring one shoulder length sling to tie off a root mid-pitch. 30m 5.6

 Note: You can rappel straight to the ground from the P2 anchor with two 60m ropes.

 P3: Climb straight up dark rock, staying about 10 feet to the right of a ledge with a large bush. Go up past a bulge to a smooth face. Continue up this smooth face past a few more bolts to a rappel anchor. About eight bolts total, one bolt is best tied off with a small wired nut. 30m, 5.6

 P4: Continue up the brown slab past some more bolts and bushy ledges to an anchor just before the ocean of vegetation. 20m, 5.5.

 P5: Continue up through vegetation to the top of the formation and then hike down.

Carry a dozen quickdraws, a small wired nut and at least one shoulder length sling.

Start in the middle of the cliff below an obvious vertical crack system, the line of Bigogwe Crack. This spot is roughly 75 feet right of the Bigogwe Boogie.

Carry a dozen quickdraws, a small wired nut and at least one shoulder length sling.