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Dingomaniaque
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Dalles Grises
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Afin Que Nul Ne Meure T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bestatête S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bénénuts S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Catalunya Mon Amour S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chlorochose S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dalles Grises S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dingomaniaque S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Le Monde d'Après S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Le Pilier des Écureuils (Upper) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches |
| GPS: | 43.7832, 6.39108 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 244 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | John Gassel on Aug 16, 2023 |
| Admins: | David Riley, Luc-514 |
Description
A great route with some great history. In 1978, Jacques Nosley drilled bolts manually on Dingomaniaque, as he was rappelling down. Some define this as the very start of the sport climbing era.
P1 (6a / 5.10a): Start to the left of the main crack feature. Up a slab past a few bolts, eventually pulling through a roof crux and to a nice belay on a ledge. This is now the standard first pitch. The original line goes up the crack, or possibly to the right as I've seen on one topo at a slightly easier grade but considerably less pro.
P2 (6a+ / 5.10b): Traverse up and left past a tree, around the corner. Make moves past some pretty polished feet and continue straight up to a belay just above a small ledge.
P3 (6a / 5.10a): A pretty uneventful pitch. Follow bolts straight up.
P4 (6c+ / 5.11c): Excellent pitch. Navigate a challenging, short crack to start. Work right under a roof into another crack system on the right. Good footwork will help with this crux. This pitch finishes on a ledge at the end of the crux.
P5 (5c / 5.9): Short pitch straight above the belay for a bit and then breaks right around a corner and onto the face, setting up beneath the beautiful last pitch. It's easy to climb too high on this pitch to an anchor above the traverse. If you do this, you can escape the route by climbing another pitch straight above that belay to the top of the cliff at around 5.10a.
P6 (6c+ / 5.11c): The money pitch. From the belay go slightly right and up to the top of the cliff on some amazing rock.
Note: some guidebooks claim this to be 7 pitches, but if you do the recommended first pitch, it's only 6 as I've described here.
Location
Rap down the Dalles Grises rappels to the Jardin des Ecureuils. The route is climbers right about 100m from where you reach the ground. Look for a big corner system that is Le Pilier des ecureuils. The guidebook calls for you to start right of this feature and traverse over it about 1 pitch up. We did not do that and instead opted to go straight up a line of bolts just to the left of the crack system at around 6a.
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