Elevation: 4,000 ft
GPS: 43.746, 6.372 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 70,380 total · 665/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Jan 14, 2012 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

Description

The Verdon Gorge is one of the classic climbing areas in Europe, and one that should be on everyones list of places to visit. The routes range from short one pitch technically challenging affairs to multi pitch all day adventures. All the routes share incredible views and perfect limestone rock.

The gorge is huge and depending on guides is divided up differently, but a common way of dividing it is to split the main gorge in 3, and then deal with the outlying areas as their own separate area. The three main areas of the gorge are basically the upstream, central and downstream sections:
* Grand Cañon - Partie Amont
* Grand Cañon - Partie Centrale
* Grand Cañon - Partie Aval

The majority of the climbs are access by walking from parking areas along the loop road, the "Route des Cretes". For the popular areas, the approaches range from a few seconds to around 15 minutes.

Some climbs start from the trail at the bottom of the gorge which means walking through tunnels carved out of the solid limestone - an adventure in itself.

The climbing scene is very relaxed and it is possible to climb incredible rock with no one around, or if a scene is more your thing, climb at one of the popular areas on the loop road and you'll have plenty other people to chat to (and more than the occasional tourist snapping pictures).

It isn't an all year venue for climbing, but from late spring through fall the climate is ideal for enjoying the walls. Afternoon thunderstorms are not uncommon in August and September.

There is a good camp ground on the east side of the nearby village, La Palud-sur-Verdon.

On your days off from climbing you can set up a bridge jump on the bridge over the river at the bottom of the gorge. Or you could just relax in and enjoy some local wine and baguette.

Guidebooks :

"52 ANS ET 520 VOIES D'ESCALADE AU VERDON" by Faudou, Adlinger, Dobel-Ober is the reference local book

"Les 100 plus belles grandes voies de Provence", by Nicholas ARMSTRONG is a multi-pitch selection guide book that presents 100 of the best routes you can find within 7 mountains in Provence (grades 4c to 7b, bolted or trad).

The magazine "Grimper" also released a topo by Bruno Clement that has over 2,500 routes in it. It also has the least information but can be good if you want it all. Cross-referencing other topos is suggested.

Getting There

Located just over a couple of hours North West from Cannes or about the same distance North East from Marseille it is easy to reach by car.

The best way to reach the gorge is to head towards the nearby village La Palud-sur-Verdon and take D23 from the village to the gorge. Make sure you take the correct exit out of town as the one way tunnel section means you will not get to all areas if you take the South West direction.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gorge du Verdon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Chlorochose
Sport 7 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Face au Public
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Afin Que Nul Ne Meure
Trad, Sport 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Free Tibet
Trad, Sport 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Dalles Grises
Sport 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Wide is Love
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
La Demande
Trad 12 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Arete du belvedere
Sport 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chlorochose Grand Cañon - P… > … > Belvedere de la… > Dalles Grises
 5
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 7 pitches
Face au Public Grand Cañon - P… > … > Belvedere de la… > Papy on Sight
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Afin Que Nul Ne Meure Grand Cañon - P… > … > Belvedere de la… > Dalles Grises
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 5 pitches
Free Tibet Grand Cañon - P… > Falaise de l'Ey… > Secteur Free Tibet
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 5 pitches
Dalles Grises Grand Cañon - P… > … > Belvedere de la… > Dalles Grises
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 6 pitches
Wide is Love Grand Cañon - P… > … > Belvedere de la… > Papy on Sight
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
La Demande Grand Cañon - P… > … > Belvedere de la… > La Demande
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 12 pitches
Arete du belvedere Grand Cañon - P… > Falaise de Belvedere…
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Gorge du Verdon »

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