Type: Sport, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,380 total · 54/month
Shared By: Maxwell Miller on Jun 14, 2015
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description

This route is an excellent introduction to the gorge and provides exciting positions. With afternoon thunderstorms this route can feel very committing. Best to get an early start. I led the final 3 pitches with a thunderstorm rolling up the gorge and light rain starting to fall. Big thanks to Brian Tinsen for selecting this excellent route.

1st Pitch - 5.10a Climb a crack that leads to elegant jug hauling.
2nd Pitch - 5.10a Continue up an slabby groove with jugs and face climbing.
3rd Pitch - 5.8 Continue up a lower angle slab with nice jugs to a ledge.
4th Pitch - 5.10a Easy moves off the belay lead to a vertical face with nice edges and nice grooves.
5th Pitch - 5.10a Edgy face climbing leads to vertical crack with nice jugs and great exposure
6th Pitch - 5.9 Continue up the crack with nice jugs and spectacular views of the gorge.
It is possible to link pitches with a 60m or 70m rope.

Location

Park at the Belvedere de la Carelle. Walk down a trail 150m east along the rim. Rappel off the anchors at the top of the rim. 4 rappels gets you to Jardin des Ecureuils. (Squirrel Garden)
There is a marked rappel that says Dalles Grises

Protection

This route is very well bolted would be wise to carry at least 12 quick draws. Some natural pro is available too.

Photos

I dropped a tourqoise Patagonia R1 fleece with a phone in the pocket off of this route on Sunday 11/4/18. The jacket likely fell down on to the large Jardin ledge in the middle of this route. If found, please email austinbeckdoss@gmail.com
Thank you! Nov 4, 2018 · Temporary Report