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Le Pilier des Écureuils (Upper)
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Dalles Grises
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Afin Que Nul Ne Meure T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bestatête S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bénénuts S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chlorochose S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dalles Grises S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dingomaniaque S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Le Monde d'Après S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Le Pilier des Écureuils (Upper) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 471 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Liebling on Oct 16, 2021 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, David Riley |
Description
The top half of a longer route, it climbs a gorgeous groove back to the top. The crux is short and well protected, with most of the climb going at 10 a/b. Unlike a lot of Verdon climbing, this route involves lots of stemming and some easier chimney climbing rather and very little pocket pulling.
It can be climbed in 4 or 5 pitches. If climbed in 4 then the first pitch will be long with the route's crux at the end. Alternatively, stop at an anchor before the crux and have a short cru pitch. The route as described below is broken in to 5 pitches.
1 - 10a - Up the groove for a relatively long pitch. The climbing can feel unusual if you're expecting Verdon pocket pulling.
2 - 11a - A few hard stem moves in the groove and then move up and right to an anchor outside of the crack. The latter section is more traditional Verdon, with steeper pocket pulling and relatively small feet. This is a short pitch and can be combined with pitch 1 for an epic long lead.
3- 10b - Move back left in to the groove and follow it up. Another fantastic long pitch just sustained enough at the grade to be very exciting. Maybe the highlight of the route?
4 - 10a - Continue up the groove as it slowly becomes more and more of a chimney. There is an anchor out left on the face (easy to miss!) just before the final big chimney. If you have shorter ropes, stop here. Otherwise, you could probably continue to the top.
5 - 5.8 - The final bit of chimney (easy if you like this kind of climbing) leading to no clear final anchor. There are some trees and features to build an anchor out of.
The last pitch can also be avoided for a more exciting face finish out left from the final anchor.
Location
To the right of Les Dalles Grises. After rapping in to Jardin des Écureuils head right and slightly down looking for a path further right rather than continuing on to the rap station heading down. You will need to scramble up a little bit from the trail to the start of the climb which is the obvious groove leading all the way to the top!
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