Type: Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
GPS: 34.10966, -116.17254
FA: Todd Gordon, SB.
Page Views: 210 total · 6/month
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on Apr 20, 2023
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

The name of the game here is sketchy rock. Sketchy rock at the start, sketchy in the middle and sketchy at the end. You start with a sort of "jug handle" (from the guide) at the base of this large round boulder sitting on a 4" base above the right side of the start of the route. The face to the left is peeling all sort of stuff and if you pound on the boulder itself to see if it's solid, it will shed more grain spontaneously. The first bolt is up there a ways, and you could place some gear if you wanted (think #3 camalot and the like). Once you have the first bolt clipped, you can stand up and clip the second. Then make cruxy moves up the peeling face and on to the third bolt. Some relief comes in the form of the blacker patinaed arete to the left, where the rock is somewhat solid, but it ain't over... you get to pull the summit moves on more cheesegrater rock that's peeling yet more grains down on your belayer. The short story is... skip this one unless you have an unhealthy appetite for Josh grain-peeling routes. Maybe if it got a load of traffic (somewhat doubtful), it would clean up nicely.

Location Suggest change

Rightmost route on the crag, found on a sort of pillar on the west (right) side past Bongo Jonnie and about 45 feet right of Ricky's Rickets.

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts, 2"-4" gear if you want to protect the start and getting to the first bolt, 2-bolt anchor with rings.

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