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Routes in The Monkey's Paw

Bongo Johnnie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Meth Mart T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Naughty Little Donkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Weiner Inspector S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Woody's Whirlpool Bath S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Description

This area is the only area on the right of the trail that is close to the trail and has climbing routes. The climbs face northwest, so you can't see the climbs from the trail.

Weiner Inspector 5.8*
This is the far left route. 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The easy crack to the right of Weiner Inspector has been climbed too (5.2)

My Naughty Little Donkey 5.9*
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 2nd bolted route fromt he left.

Meth Mart 5.10-*
Starts out with a thin crack on natural pro, then to 2 bolts and up to the anchor on My Naught Little Donkey

Woody's Whirlpool Bath 5.10-*
This is the steep route whcih starts out in the large heuco, and then goes up past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt rap station on a ledge; This climb does not go to the top of the formation.

Bongo Johnnie 5.9*
This route climbs past 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. It is the furthest right bolting line.

Gay Hooker's Convention 5.3
The easy crack right of Bongo Johnnie.

Getting There

Hike about 15 min. down the Boy Scout Trail from Indian Cove, until you see rock formations on the right. Hike aroud to the N. face, and you will find these routes.

5 Total Climbs

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This formation is the first large unimpressive pile of boulders you see on the right side of the trail. It looks like there can't be anything worth doing there from that vantage point.

We did three of the five today and the consensus of an experienced bunch of locals was;

Wiener Inspector (hard 5.9 or soft 10a)

My Naughty Little Donkey (10a)

Bongo Johnnie (10b if over 5'9" 10+ if shorter)

The middle two;

too evil looking to contemplate today.

All of the routes were good, steep, thought provoking and relatively sheltered from the wind. May 29, 2011

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