The Mohawk
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British R
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.0721, -116.15292 |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro, Brett Maurer,1982 (p1). Randy Leavitt, 1987 (p2) |
| Page Views: | 269 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Gabriel Kerbs on Apr 2, 2023 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
P1 (5.12b? PG, 75 ft) Walk up the slab and climb the steep corner/crack, passing two [modern] bolts, a few gear placements, and a punchy run for the anchor! A great pitch on it's own.
P2 (5.12c R, 75 ft) Continue up the corner/thin crack with two fixed pins and a copperhead protecting the hardest moves on the route. If this mank were to rip, you're looking at a factor 2 onto the anchor (I couldn't find much confidence-inspiring gear to back these fixed pieces up, and moved very cautiously through it while I sorted it out). Once past this, more engaging climbing brings you to the top (gear anchor).
Descend by rappelling from the bolts at the top of The Last Unicorn (2 rappels with a 70m rope).



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