All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Nat… > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > Willow Hole Area > The Super Dome
The Last Unicorn
Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||1st Pitch: Dave Evans, Craig Fry, Randy Vogel, 1980. Pitch 2: Alan Bartlett, Dan Michael, April 1981|
|Page Views:||1,652 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Randy on Apr 25, 2003|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
LocationThis route ascends the middle of the impressive south face of The Super Dome; taking the obvious line of weakness. Start just left of a left facing corner-block (Bleed Proof), behind a small oak tree. This route sports new 3/8 inch bolts and sporty climbing on both pitches. But for climbers solid at the grade, the line definitely beckons...
DescriptionP1: Climb up about 25 feet to a bolt (a small sling on a horn can protect getting to bolt). Head back down a bit, then begin a long traverse left (10b or so, R) until you can climb up to a 2nd bolt. Above, climb the obvious shallow, right facing corner past 3 more bolts (some gear required too) to a large ledge and 2 bolt belay. It is possible to rappel from here (100++ feet) or make 2 shorter rappels down Warpath (5.12c) which lies on the face to the left.
P2: Probably less done than the 1st pitch. Head pretty much straight up past 2 bolts and a fixed pin on steep and somewhat loose face (10b/c R).
From summit, downclimb right, then make a short rappel off top of Lion's Share on The Super Block, then head back left to the base. Alternatively, downclimb left and scramble down then up back to base.
ProtectionPitch 1: 5 bolts, Thin to 1.5 inches. 2 bolt anchor/100 foot rappel.Pitch 2: 2 bolts, 1 fixed pin, To 2 inches.
All the original protection and belay bolts on this route have been replaced by ASCA. The pin on the second pitch is still there. The pin and bolt at first pitch belay were replaced with two bolts with rappel rings.