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Routes in The Super Dome

Bilderberg Conference, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bleed Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cole-Lewis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great Unknown, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Unicorn, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Stonehinge T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1st Pitch: Dave Evans, Craig Fry, Randy Vogel, 1980. Pitch 2: Alan Bartlett, Dan Michael, April 1981
Page Views: 1,621 total, 9/month
Shared By: Randy on Apr 25, 2003 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Location

This route ascends the middle of the impressive south face of The Super Dome; taking the obvious line of weakness. Start just left of a left facing corner-block (Bleed Proof), behind a small oak tree. This route sports new 3/8 inch bolts and sporty climbing on both pitches. But for climbers solid at the grade, the line definitely beckons...

Description

P1: Climb up about 25 feet to a bolt (a small sling on a horn can protect getting to bolt). Head back down a bit, then begin a long traverse left (10b or so, R) until you can climb up to a 2nd bolt. Above, climb the obvious shallow, right facing corner past 3 more bolts (some gear required too) to a large ledge and 2 bolt belay. It is possible to rappel from here (100++ feet) or make 2 shorter rappels down Warpath (5.12c) which lies on the face to the left.

P2: Probably less done than the 1st pitch. Head pretty much straight up past 2 bolts and a fixed pin on steep and somewhat loose face (10b/c R).

From summit, downclimb right, then make a short rappel off top of Lion's Share on The Super Block, then head back left to the base. Alternatively, downclimb left and scramble down then up back to base.

Protection

Pitch 1: 5 bolts, Thin to 1.5 inches. 2 bolt anchor/100 foot rappel.Pitch 2: 2 bolts, 1 fixed pin, To 2 inches.

All the original protection and belay bolts on this route have been replaced by ASCA. The pin on the second pitch is still there. The pin and bolt at first pitch belay were replaced with two bolts with rappel rings.

Photos

Daniel Ws
Fountain valley
  5.10d R
Daniel Ws   Fountain valley
  5.10d R
Great climb ? Jul 29, 2014
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
I hiked back in there probably 12-15 years ago, and even then my partner and I looked at the bolts and kind of turned away in digust, which is saying something given I had been raised running it on quarter inchers at Suicide, etc. Pity, since the route looks awesome. May 3, 2011
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
This is all Dave Evans' fault....everyone knows this....... Dec 1, 2010
Randy
 
Randy  
 
The topo (and description) in the guidebook (Joshua Tree West) is entirely accurate. If you are contemplating doing this route, you should consult the guidebook.

It is great that the bolts have been replaced, but it is still a heads-up lead. Dec 1, 2010