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The Last Unicorn
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 3.2 from 9
votes
Routes in The Super Dome
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Bilderberg Conference, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bleed Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cole-Lewis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Great Unknown, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Last Unicorn, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Mohawk, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Nemo Memorial Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stonehinge T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Warpath S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.0721, -116.15292 |
| FA: | 1st Pitch: Dave Evans, Craig Fry, Randy Vogel, 1980. Pitch 2: Alan Bartlett, Dan Michael, April 1981 |
| Page Views: | 3,043 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Apr 25, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Location
This route ascends the middle of the impressive south face of The Super Dome; taking the obvious line of weakness. Start just left of a left facing corner-block (Bleed Proof), behind a small oak tree. This route sports new 3/8 inch bolts and sporty climbing on both pitches. But for climbers solid at the grade, the line definitely beckons...
Description
P1: Climb up about 25 feet to a bolt (a small sling on a horn can protect getting to bolt). Head back down a bit, then begin a long traverse left (10b or so, R) until you can climb up to a 2nd bolt. Above, climb the obvious shallow, right facing corner past 3 more bolts (some gear required too) to a large ledge and 2 bolt belay. It is possible to rappel from here (100++ feet) or make 2 shorter rappels down Warpath (5.12c) which lies on the face to the left.
P2: Probably less done than the 1st pitch. Head pretty much straight up past 2 bolts and a fixed pin on steep and somewhat loose face (10b/c R).
From summit, downclimb right, then make a short rappel off top of Lion's Share on The Super Block, then head back left to the base. Alternatively, downclimb left and scramble down then up back to base.
Protection
Pitch 1: 5 bolts, Thin to 1.5 inches. 2 bolt anchor/100 foot rappel.Pitch 2: 2 bolts, 1 fixed pin, To 2 inches.
All the original protection and belay bolts on this route have been replaced by ASCA. The pin on the second pitch is still there. The pin and bolt at first pitch belay were replaced with two bolts with rappel rings.
6 Comments