Early and Often
V10 YDS 7C+ Font
| Type: | Boulder, 12 ft (4 m) |
| GPS: | 39.34993, -104.76682 |
| FA: | Marcelo Montalva |
| Page Views: | 585 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | LucasSpiegel on Mar 23, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to us at 303-688-5242 or dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us.
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
Early and Often is a powerful and technical boulder problem. It climbs more like the long crux section on a hard sport route, as it's pumpy af and throws a lot of difficult moves at you. I can't think of another boulder around here that's similar to this one.
The original start begins matched on the second hueco up from the bottom. (Starting lower from Hobble Cobble adds a few moves and maybe a half grade.) Bust some moves up and out right to the arete. The crux for me was moving to a pocket in the center of the overhang. Keep slapping that arete until possible to mantel up and over the lip. The mantel moves are only V4 or so but have spit me off several times. Skipping the mantel and bailing out right is a grade easier but not the original line....go direct for full grade value. It can be a bit dabby at the start, so a thin mat or pad is useful.
A beta video: https://youtube.com/shorts/7fPiBN1o8dU?feature=share.



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