| Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
| GPS: | 36.13407, -96.40274 |
| FA: | FKA: MJ and CS |
| Page Views: | 215 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Miles Johnson on Feb 20, 2023 |
| Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
For 10 years most people parked in a dirt pullout by the RR tracks and hiked alongside the tracks to access the river but it is all BNSF property and hiking alongside the tracks is illegal. They have had multiple vehicles towed as of 3/12/2020.
Description
Bomb Squad - 1 star problem, 4 star fun.
Have you plateau’d around v4-v6 and need a thrill? Already sent all the decent V3-4 in the area? Well, spice up your life and come out to the peninsula for a gut check to see if you can commit to a heinous but fun problem, Bomb squad - the Dollar Tree version of Midnight Lightning.
Start out with left hand in the shallow box Arete and a right hand in a jug pocket Undercling. Lift off into a flag or heel hook and figure out a mixture of butterfinger crimps, finger locks, slopers, and Sandy ledges to work a layback/stem/power Press mantle and stay cool exiting the super Sandy topout.
It’s not choss but it’s not bomber - it’s Bomb Squad.
A well earned send and test of commitment and grit when the topout conditions are less than perfect. Good low practice for many of the other Sandy awkward topouts in Zen Pen.



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