Type: Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)
GPS: 36.13407, -96.40274
FA: FKA: MJ and CS
Page Views: 215 total · 6/month
Shared By: Miles Johnson on Feb 20, 2023
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Hiking along the railroad tracks is illegal and parking in the adjacent dirt pullout may get your vehicle towed. BUT the VFW just south is graciously providing access via their gravel parking lot. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Bomb Squad - 1 star problem, 4 star fun.

Have you plateau’d around v4-v6 and need a thrill? Already sent all the decent V3-4 in the area? Well, spice up your life and come out to the peninsula for a gut check to see if you can commit to a heinous but fun problem, Bomb squad - the Dollar Tree version of Midnight Lightning.

Start out with left hand in the shallow box Arete and a right hand in a jug pocket Undercling. Lift off into a flag or heel hook and figure out a mixture of butterfinger crimps, finger locks, slopers, and Sandy ledges to work a layback/stem/power Press mantle and stay cool exiting the super Sandy topout.

It’s not choss but it’s not bomber - it’s Bomb Squad.

A well earned send and test of commitment and grit when the topout conditions are less than perfect. Good low practice for many of the other Sandy awkward topouts in Zen Pen. 

Location Suggest change

Right of Spine. Left of Crescent Dihedral. Start RH in a low Undercling pocket and LH on the shallow box Arete. Go up however you see fit. 

Protection Suggest change

2 pads

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