Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Penon d'Ifach
|
Costa Blanca S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
Diedra UBSA T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
El Navigante S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Mare Nostrum S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Polvos Magicos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
To Have and To Hold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Valencianos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Via Pany T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 9 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 38.63492, 0.07446 |
| FA: | Ximo & Sonia Tierraseca |
| Page Views: | 339 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Stefurak on Jan 31, 2023 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
Access Issue: Permit Required
Details
Permits can be procured day of assuming there are any left. There are usually no permits available day-of on the weekends so plan ahead.
According to signage the fine for violating the permit restrictions is 600-6000 euros. I assume this goes for people who come up a route like Diedra UBSA that doesn't require access to the main path but descends it. There were people at the base of the wall by 9am checking permits.
Description
On the sunny south face of the Penon de F’alk is the soaring route which follows a surprisingly steep line up the face.
The route is entirely bolted and set up for rappel with the exclusion of the anchor at the base of the upper 11d (7a) pitch. I believe you can rappel the route with a single 70m rope, but the preferred method is to walk off down the popular tourist trail on the back of the mountain.
P1, Original suggested to be 12a this has settled down a bit and is a rude warmup and perhaps the crux of the route. It seemed reasonable to back clean a few draws to reduce drag and make it so you don’t need to carry more than 14 QDs on the route.
P2. A slick crux off the belay on a plethora of pockets leads over a bulge and a rest. Continue up a dihedral and onto a slab until you find a nice two bolt belay at a comfortable ledge.
P3. Climb steeply out of the belay alcove and then amble on to the right and then back left until you reach a belay on the left side of a huge sandy cave/alcove.
P4 Slopers off the belay lead to a steep righward traverse and a belay at another large sandy ledge below
P5 Steep moves up the nice face lead to another lip encounter and a traverse to the right. On the rightward traverse if you see a hangerless bolt, don’t go any higher, this is off route. You need to go much further right. I found this pitch to be much harder than the previous two, perhaps closer to P2 in difficulty.
P6. Traverse right from belay until you are forced to step left into chossy rock. Continue quite a ways back to the left before you are able to climb a steep and occasionally loose feature that ends at a small and exposed pedestal.
P7. A single bolt above the belay protects some choss wrangling onto a large ramp. Two more bolts on the left in the sea of choss bring you to the base of the steep 11d pitch you have been waiting for.
P8 Nice rock and a few varied cruxes are a great way to end the day. Work your way up the steep pitch turning the corner slightly to the left before finishing on highly featured limestone. Belay on the right at a nice ledge.
P9. We didn’t find an anchor at 40m as suggested, but did find two good bolts with rings on the ridge further right than expected.
1 Comment