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Routes in Penon d'Ifach

Costa Blanca S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Diedra UBSA T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Navigante S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Polvos Magicos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
To Have and To Hold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valencianos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Via Pany T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Rosa, Devesa, de Valera
Page Views: 25 total · 9/month
Shared By: ddriver on Jul 27, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

Polvos Magicos is a more direct line sharing sections of the route Via Valencianos, using the same first pitch but generally staying more straight up or to the right.
1. Same start as Valencianos.
2. Where Valencianos moves left on the second pitch Polvos Magicos goes straight up the steep bolted face and slippery corner (crux).  
3. The route then moves right to attain the long and massive dihedral at the right side of the Valencianos slab.  
4 & 5. Follow the steep and exposed corner in two more pitches to the ridge.  
6. Climb a groove in the ridge.
7 & 8. Join the finish of Valencianos.

Location

As for Valencianos on the South Face of the Penon.  The massive dihedral is readily visible on the approach from Calpe.

Protection

Full rack, some fixed sections.

Photos

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