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Routes in Penon d'Ifach

Costa Blanca S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diedra UBSA T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Navigante S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
To Have and To Hold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valencianos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Via Pany T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: ??
Page Views: 3,287 total · 28/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Oct 20, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

A popular and casual route up the towering South face. Loose rock is prevalent on the lower portion of the route and a helmet is advised.

Follow the beach toward the tower then where the sidewalk ends scramble up scree slopes to the base of the rock. There is a spray painted arrow at the base of the route.

Pitch 1: 110 ft. 5.3
wander up the loose and dirty slab with sparse pro to a set of 4 belay bolts.

Pitch 2: 120 ft. 5.4
Walk left along a bushy ledge until you reach a right leaning ramp and romp up the ramp until you are directly above your belayer and belay.

Pitch 3: 90 ft. 5.9+/10-
Head right past some impressive crack systems until you reach a polished spot where two cracks merge in a V shape. There are two bolts here to ease the polish factor. Belay on a slab above.

Pitch 4: 70 ft. 5.7
Follow a few bolts up and left along a slab and belay near a bush.

Pitch 5: 135 ft. 5.7
The goods. A long and airy pitch with incredible views and position. Head for the ridge and belay there.

Pitch 6: 120 ft. 5.7
Traverse left a ways until you find a nice crack through a slab and ascend the crack until you reach a comfy belay.

Pitches 7 & 8: 200 ft. 5.easy
cruise for the top on non-descript ground enjoying the view.

Walk off and eat seafood...

Location

South Face

Protection

manky old bolts piton and other fixed gear. Small rack to 2"

Photos

Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9- PG13
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9- PG13
Basically 5.7 or less with one slippy move (maybe just 5.9?) right next to good gear. A bit of a ramble but nice views at the top of the big slab. Jul 2, 2009

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