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Routes in Penon d'Ifach

Costa Blanca S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Diedra UBSA T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Navigante S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
To Have and To Hold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valencianos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Via Pany T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,320 total, 29/month
Shared By: percious on Apr 7, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay

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12 Opinions

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Description

This über-classic climbs the south face of the Peñon D'Ifach direct before veering off left to finish. A series of dihedrals and some polished face climbing leads to a pinnacle before launching through the crux, making a short rappel, and finishing in a polished, but stellar overhanging dihedral. Sparingly protected by bolts, you may decide to bring some extra gear, but I found it hard to place and somewhat unreliable in the bullet-proof polished glass limestone.
Here is a description of the route by pitches:

1) Angle up and right to a bolted belay below a dihedral. (4th)
2) Climb the first dihedral to a belay in a cave. (5+)
3) Face climb through the naturally cemented-on holds (stellar but a bit runout) Back to the dihedral to a large belay ledge with a bush. (6a)
4) Climb up through the cracks to the right and back into an ugly dihedral, then belay at the top of a chockstone. (5)
5) (6a variation) Face climb directly through wonderful, but polished heucoes through a small cave and around two more to a large cave. At the large cave, head left to find the belays and ultimately the rappel anchors.
6) Make a short (10m) rappel to a ledge and head to the left side of the ledge to a bolted belay.
7) Traverse left to a dihedral, up through a bush and left to anchors (4+)
8) Finish on the final dihedral with an overhang to anchors at the top. (5)
9) Scramble to the summit. (4th)

Location

Head left up the ramp from the end of the tourist path. You will see a large dihedral above, head left some more, to the base of Costa Blanca. From here the route starts right, after a ramp.

Protection

Bolted, but sparingly. A few cams are useful to place intermediately. Mid-sized will serve you well. Expect some run-outs even if you bring some gear.
Eric Bluemn
Worcester, MA
 
Eric Bluemn   Worcester, MA
 
Great route and minimal trad gear required. There was some loose rock and spaced bolts on the first pitch, and I used a yellow alien higher up. Some of the slings on the p6 could use updating as of 3/2017.
Apr 8, 2017
Flex
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Flex   Flagstaff, AZ
 
The rappel anchors are 2 bolts with rings as of Nov 2014. We found it easiest to lower the leader down to the ledge system and then traverse to the next belay and then the follower doing the same. This requires the second to untie and then pull the rope through the rings after completing the pitch. This seemed easier and safer than trying to negotiate the traverse while on rappel and having to feed out rope to yourself. Jan 5, 2015