Avg: 3.3 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||1,320 total, 29/month|
|Shared By:||percious on Apr 7, 2014|
DescriptionThis über-classic climbs the south face of the Peñon D'Ifach direct before veering off left to finish. A series of dihedrals and some polished face climbing leads to a pinnacle before launching through the crux, making a short rappel, and finishing in a polished, but stellar overhanging dihedral. Sparingly protected by bolts, you may decide to bring some extra gear, but I found it hard to place and somewhat unreliable in the bullet-proof polished glass limestone.
Here is a description of the route by pitches:
1) Angle up and right to a bolted belay below a dihedral. (4th)
2) Climb the first dihedral to a belay in a cave. (5+)
3) Face climb through the naturally cemented-on holds (stellar but a bit runout) Back to the dihedral to a large belay ledge with a bush. (6a)
4) Climb up through the cracks to the right and back into an ugly dihedral, then belay at the top of a chockstone. (5)
5) (6a variation) Face climb directly through wonderful, but polished heucoes through a small cave and around two more to a large cave. At the large cave, head left to find the belays and ultimately the rappel anchors.
6) Make a short (10m) rappel to a ledge and head to the left side of the ledge to a bolted belay.
7) Traverse left to a dihedral, up through a bush and left to anchors (4+)
8) Finish on the final dihedral with an overhang to anchors at the top. (5)
9) Scramble to the summit. (4th)