Type: Trad, Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,309 total · 27/month
Shared By: percious on Apr 7, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, David Riley

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This über-classic climbs the south face of the Peñon D'Ifach direct before veering off left to finish. A series of dihedrals and some polished face climbing leads to a pinnacle before launching through the crux, making a short rappel, and finishing in a polished, but stellar overhanging dihedral. Sparingly protected by bolts, you may decide to bring some extra gear, but I found it hard to place and somewhat unreliable in the bullet-proof polished glass limestone.
Here is a description of the route by pitches:

1) Angle up and right to a bolted belay below a dihedral. (4th)
2) Climb the first dihedral to a belay in a cave. (5+)
3) Face climb through the naturally cemented-on holds (stellar but a bit runout) Back to the dihedral to a large belay ledge with a bush. (6a)
4) Climb up through the cracks to the right and back into an ugly dihedral, then belay at the top of a chockstone. (5)
5) (6a variation) Face climb directly through wonderful, but polished heucoes through a small cave and around two more to a large cave. At the large cave, head left to find the belays and ultimately the rappel anchors.
6) Make a short (10m) rappel to a ledge and head to the left side of the ledge to a bolted belay.
7) Traverse left to a dihedral, up through a bush and left to anchors (4+)
8) Finish on the final dihedral with an overhang to anchors at the top. (5)
9) Scramble to the summit. (4th)

Location Suggest change

Head left up the ramp from the end of the tourist path. You will see a large dihedral above, head left some more, to the base of Costa Blanca. From here the route starts right, after a ramp.

Protection Suggest change

Bolted, but sparingly. A few cams are useful to place intermediately. Mid-sized will serve you well. Expect some run-outs even if you bring some gear.