All Locations > International > Europe > Spain > Valencia > Costa Blanca > Penon d'Ifach

Diedra UBSA

Name: Diedra UBSA
Rating: 3.3

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13

Routes in Penon d'Ifach

L › R R › L A › Z

	Costa Blanca S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Diedra UBSA T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	El Navigante S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Mare Nostrum S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Polvos Magicos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	To Have and To Hold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Valencianos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Via Pany T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type:	Trad, Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	38.63492, 0.07446
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	3,440 total · 24/month
Shared By:	percious on Apr 7, 2014
Admins:	Jason Halladay, David Riley Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Permit Required Details

Note: Access to the tourist trail on Penyal D'ifach is currently restricted by permit. This trail is only descent for most routes and the approach for many. There are 300 permits given per day. You can acquire a permit here: gva.es/va/inicio/procedimie…

Permits can be procured day of assuming there are any left. There are usually no permits available day-of on the weekends so plan ahead.

According to signage the fine for violating the permit restrictions is 600-6000 euros. I assume this goes for people who come up a route like Diedra UBSA that doesn't require access to the main path but descends it. There were people at the base of the wall by 9am checking permits.

Description

This über-classic climbs the south face of the Peñon D'Ifach direct before veering off left to finish. A series of dihedrals and some polished face climbing leads to a pinnacle before launching through the crux, making a short rappel, and finishing in a polished, but stellar overhanging dihedral. Sparingly protected by bolts, you may decide to bring some extra gear, but I found it hard to place and somewhat unreliable in the bullet-proof polished glass limestone.
Here is a description of the route by pitches:

1) Angle up and right to a bolted belay below a dihedral. (4th)
2) Climb the first dihedral to a belay in a cave. (5+)
3) Face climb through the naturally cemented-on holds (stellar but a bit runout) Back to the dihedral to a large belay ledge with a bush. (6a)
4) Climb up through the cracks to the right and back into an ugly dihedral, then belay at the top of a chockstone. (5)
5) (6a variation) Face climb directly through wonderful, but polished heucoes through a small cave and around two more to a large cave. At the large cave, head left to find the belays and ultimately the rappel anchors.
6) Make a short (10m) rappel to a ledge and head to the left side of the ledge to a bolted belay.
7) Traverse left to a dihedral, up through a bush and left to anchors (4+)
8) Finish on the final dihedral with an overhang to anchors at the top. (5)
9) Scramble to the summit. (4th)

Location

Head left up the ramp from the end of the tourist path. You will see a large dihedral above, head left some more, to the base of Costa Blanca. From here the route starts right, after a ramp.

Protection

Bolted, but sparingly. A few cams are useful to place intermediately. Mid-sized will serve you well. Expect some run-outs even if you bring some gear.