Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 36.5233, -118.239
FA: Sam Fearer, Tom Sicilian. 2020
Page Views: 257 total · 7/month
Shared By: Sam Fearer on Dec 29, 2022
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the second attempted route, but first completed, from our rather unrewarding fascination with the South Face of Langley. Roughly 900 feet of steep and physical cracks, with an occasional knob here and there on the face for a foot. The rock is very flaky and mostly mediocre in quality. Imagine the climbing on the Harding Route on Conness, but quite a bit worse...

The part of me that loved the adventure and steep cracks thinks it deserves at least 2 stars. But the rest of me– the part that remembers questionable rock, running out of gear in the wrong places, a middling pseudo-summit, and a long night of ascending stuck ropes in an unexpected snowstorm– thinks it deserves a bomb. That situation at the end probably made me biased though, so YMMV. 

If you have a high tolerance for mediocre rock or love Sierra climbing with an irrational panache, maybe you should do this route. Otherwise, maybe you shouldn't. Very much an adventure climb.

Finishing the thing to the true summit just wasn't going to happen for us. If you're after the real summit, the Robinson-Thomas route (S-Wall) is probably a better option.

That said, the camping is fantastic.

Location Suggest change

Tiki Face, right pillar, right-hand side. Starts in a shallow right-facing corner and takes continuous cracks to the pseudo-summit of the "milk bottle".

Hike in roughly seven miles from the Horseshoe Meadows trailhead. The wall is located just beyond Lake 6.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles: 0.1-3. Singles: 4 & 5. Nuts. Runners.

Rapping may require two 70s. Plan to replace some webbing

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