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Routes in Mt. Langley

North east couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rest & Be Thankful (aka North Arete) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 15 pitches, Grade V
FA: Miguel Carmona & Alois Smrz Sept 5-6 1999
Page Views: 714 total, 26/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Aug 24, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access limited from May to October every year Details


A long and elegant line up the prominent North Arete, topping out directly on the summit of 14,026' Mt Langley. One of the only established technical routes on the southernmost 14er. A committing backcountry route with complex route finding, loose rock, and a big approach and descent. A handful of excellent crack pitches round out the heaps of grainy choss on this big blocky buttress.

Approach: Tuttle Creek to the Stonehouse, then turn left and head up sandy sidehill trail to the South Fork of Tuttle Creek. About 2 hours in you will reach the long south-facing Keyhole Wall. Beyond this, the trail deteriorates quickly, but keep an eye out for cairns. Cross the creek to the south side shortly after the Keyhole Wall and continue up canyon through trees and moraine fields. There is a nice camping area with trees and water directly beneath the Tuttle Obelisk - the prominent 700' white tower on the north side of the canyon. 4 hrs to here with overnight packs. From camp, another 2 hrs of brutal talus and sand leads to 3rd class slabs up and around the left side of the large detached tower at the base of the arete. The route starts from the top of the notch behind this tower. The description below from the FA party was sufficient for us to follow the route. Some of the pitch lengths seemed a bit off, but just focus on finding the obvious landmarks and towers.

Pitch by pitch breakdown courtesy of the FA:
Pitch 1 From the Notch, climb up past a short, left facing dihedral, go up into easier terrain (5.7) to the base of a large chimney capped by a big block (165').

Pitch 2 Climb up hand cracks (5.9) on the steep, yellow wall left of the chimney. Move up and toward a high right leaning ramp and follow it to the end (165').

Pitch 3 Climb up and left, then over and around cracks and chimneys (5.7/5.8)toward the left side of the prominent arete above you (165').

Pitch 4 You are now on the left side and at the base of the Third Tower. Traverse to the right on a ledge that takes you past the edge of the arete. Find a hidden crack (not visible from the belay), climb it to the top of the Tower(160', 5.7/5.8). Lower each other down to the notch of the Tower.

Pitch 5 Traverse left about 20', go up (5.8) to the base of the brown cracks (100').

Pitch 6 Climb the brown hand crack to a ledge 80' up. (5.9/5.10 Sustained).

Pitch 7 Continue up the brown crack to the top of the Fourth Tower (120', 5.9/5.10 Sustained).

Pitch 8 Traverse on the left side of the arete for 165', 5.3.

Pitch 9 Step around to the right side of the arete. Climb up an short awkward chimney, continue up to reach a large ledge at the base of the Fifth Tower. This is the best ledge on the route. (60', 5.8).

Pitch 10 Climb around the right side of the Tower (easy 5th) for 140' to the base of a chimney/crack system.

Pitch 11 Climb up the chimney (5.8) for 165' to the top of the Fifth Tower.

Pitch 12 Climb easy terrain on right side of the arete, then cross to the left side (165', 3/4 class)

Pitch 13 From here you can see the huge and smooth summit headwall of Langley. The route goes to the right, on the north side of the arete for 140'.

Pitch 14 Go up over large blocks and around the north face (140', 5.7).

Pitch 15 Climb up to the right side of the smooth summit headwall and directly to the summit of Mt. Langley (120', 5.7).

To descend, head east along the summit plateau of Langley, dropping down and into the NE chute (3rd class). In early season, this is likely snow-filled and a quick descent. In high summer, I can only compare this loose scree gully to a Whitney Mountaineers Route on steroids. Bigger, looser, harder, slower. 2 hours from the summit back to camp if you're quick.


Doubles to #3, #4.
This route has seen possibly as few as 4 ascents now, and it will still feel like the first when you're on it. We trundled dozens of loose blocks in an effort to clean things up a little bit. Most memorable section for me - tunneling up a chimney on P3 with a birthing-hole type squeeze exit at the top; only the exit was partially blocked by a 200 lb rock, which I was able to push over to the side with both arms overhead while my lower body was locked in below. Tape is highly recommended on this gritty, grainy, north-facing rock. Aug 24, 2015