Type: Trad, 45 ft (14 m)
GPS: 35.87063, -93.05327
FA: Jer Collins
Page Views: 290 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jeremy Collins on Dec 21, 2022
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Although it has been lead with a crashpad-protected start, the bulk of this line is generally considered a top-rope from the Last Waltz anchors called “Total Trash”, which 

1. is a horrendous name for such an absolutely beautiful route. One mans trash is... well, you know.

2. Bizarrely skipped the fantastic steep bulge independent exit 

The truth is, there’s excellent gear all the way up, starting with a critical #0 cam at ten feet in a 2 inch slot. It is easy to pre-place to avoid decking if needed. Bury that thing deep, bounce test below and go for it! At the final bulge, clip a bolt and do a couple long reaches to the lower-offs at the lip.

Excellent rock quality and far better gear than White Trash. The line however struggles with being a bit contrived: you can easily reach left to better holds keeping the line at 11a, or one move to the right and it’s a bit stiffer. Basically there’s three ways to start so pick one and get into the good stuff.

Destined to be a classic.

Location Suggest change

Start a few feet right of the obvious crack of Last Waltz on micro crimps to a horizontal break. Follow features up and right to the bolt in the headwall roof.

Protection Suggest change

#0-#3 Cams.

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