Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,096 total · 10/month
Shared By: ARussell on Jan 19, 2010
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Start in the wide corner and work left at the low horizontal. Quickly move through the fun, technical face on small, sloping ledges, making for one or two somewhat strenous gear placements. Recoup on the large ledge before tackling the finishing roof where the extended anchor chains can be clipped before committing to the finishing moves.

Location

Begins in the obvious corner at the White Trash Wall, 40' left of the chimney, Fat Crack (5.6).

Protection

Pro to 3". Specifically nuts and #'s .75 and 3 Camalots. Sling a sketchy chicken head for encouragement. Equalized chain anchor.

Photos

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I found that big-finger sized aliens worked well in those middle placements. Also, it was nice to be able to clip the chains before really committing to the finishing moves. It seems that the long anchors might take away from the experience of doing the last tough moves with only a cam, that may not be great depending on what you have left, in the roof.

This is a good route for any area in the country. May 29, 2012
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
Chains that hang down past the roof are gone as of November 2013. I don't know why they were removed, Just an observation. Feb 16, 2014
Luke Toillion
Longmont, CO
  5.10a PG13
Luke Toillion   Longmont, CO
  5.10a PG13
I'm not sure if the chains used to hang down lower, but when I did his route in March 2018, I definitely had to pull the roof before clipping. You can get a semi-decent yellow camalot in a slot in the roof, but it's quite dirty and probably wouldn't hold a big fall.

Quite a committing move! Best to be solid at the grade before trying this one. Apr 2, 2018
Zach Lau
Omaha, NE
5.10a
Zach Lau   Omaha, NE
5.10a
Very cool climb, felt quite sustained from the hand traverse to the ledge before the anchors. I guess 5.9+ is accurate for the area, but this felt more sustained/harder than The Battle of the Bulge which is 10a. Either way be SOLID leading 5.9 on decent gear before hopping on this climb. Nov 22, 2018