Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in White Trash Wall

Bash the Jugs T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boston Rag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chimney Up and Down T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Diagonal Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lazy Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Local Honey T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mouse Trap T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
New York Minute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Up T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tandem Slide aka Last Waltz T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Total Trash T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Trash Direct T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Crack Me Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 999 total · 10/month
Shared By: ARussell on Jan 19, 2010
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start in the wide corner and work left at the low horizontal. Quickly move through the fun, technical face on small, sloping ledges, making for one or two somewhat strenous gear placements. Recoup on the large ledge before tackling the finishing roof where the extended anchor chains can be clipped before committing to the finishing moves.

Location

Begins in the obvious corner at the White Trash Wall, 40' left of the chimney, Fat Crack (5.6).

Protection

Pro to 3". Specifically nuts and #'s .75 and 3 Camalots. Sling a sketchy chicken head for encouragement. Equalized chain anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
I found that big-finger sized aliens worked well in those middle placements. Also, it was nice to be able to clip the chains before really committing to the finishing moves. It seems that the long anchors might take away from the experience of doing the last tough moves with only a cam, that may not be great depending on what you have left, in the roof.

This is a good route for any area in the country. May 29, 2012
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
Chains that hang down past the roof are gone as of November 2013. I don't know why they were removed, Just an observation. Feb 16, 2014
Luke Toillion
Longmont, CO
  5.10a PG13
Luke Toillion   Longmont, CO
  5.10a PG13
I'm not sure if the chains used to hang down lower, but when I did his route in March 2018, I definitely had to pull the roof before clipping. You can get a semi-decent yellow camalot in a slot in the roof, but it's quite dirty and probably wouldn't hold a big fall.

Quite a committing move! Best to be solid at the grade before trying this one. Apr 2, 2018

More About White Trash

Printer-Friendly