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Deaf Elevated

Name: Deaf Elevated
Rating: 2.7

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Newcastle Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Boila, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Broon, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Brown Ale S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Carrying Coals T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Deaf Elevated TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Full Sail S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Guinness S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Mission Accomplished TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	One the Only, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pale Ale S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unknown TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Warrantless Wiretap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	TR, 25 ft (8 m)
GPS:	36.15122, -115.43254
FA:	April 13, 2022
Page Views:	377 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Stefani on Nov 25, 2022
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Much of Newcastle crag is a toprope area, with bolted anchors accessible by walking up the top of the formation. The far left side of the formation is short and mostly unclimbed (there are no bolted anchors).

We built an anchor using long static rope (setting gear and tying into natural protection on the other side of the formation) to give this climb a go.

The rock was pretty crispy and sharp, but there are some interesting moves and a couple different ways to do the climb, giving it some variety - with crimps, bulges, and slopers.

This climb is Sonya Wilson's (@DeafClimber) first FA and it was done in celebration of her birthday and deaf climbers everywhere - hence the name Deaf Elevated.

Location

The climb is located near the left end (climber's left) when you first enter the Newcastle corridor (not far from where you access the top of the formation to reach the bolted anchors of other climbs).

Protection

There are no bolts at this end of the formation. Gear and a static rope are needed to build a large anchor for this climb, as there is no pro at the top. We used a #1 and #0.5 about midway up on the backside of the formation. Because the rock for gear is less than stellar and there aren't a lot of options for pro, we backed it up on the other side of the formation from the climb.