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Routes in Newcastle Crag

Boila, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broon, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Brown Ale S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Full Sail S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Guinness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mission Accomplished TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One the Only, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pale Ale S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warrantless Wiretap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike McGlynn and Todd Lane 5/06
Page Views: 1,394 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mike McGlynn on May 29, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route is located at the extreme right (north) end of the wall. Follow a large curving flake past a bolt, over a bulge - crux -, past three more bolts to bolted anchors. This route shares anchors with Mission Accomplished.

Location

As with all routes on this wall, you can get to the anchors by simply walking up the left (south) end of the formation. The base of the climb starts on top of the ledge at the far right (north) end of the wall.

Protection

Four bolts to bolted anchors.
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8-
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8-
Great place to take beginners for some TR'ing but also a decent route worth stopping by for on your way to something else. This entire wall needs a bit more traffic as A LOT of stuff was crumbly. Jul 20, 2006
Marc C
Redondo Beach, CA
 
Marc C   Redondo Beach, CA
 
Only found a couple bolt hangers at the top. They were set far enough back from the edge to make me concerned about not being able to pull the rope after rapping. Belayed my 2nd up to the top and we walked over to another set of anchors. Apr 8, 2009
dnoB ekiM
  5.6
dnoB ekiM  
  5.6
Only one hanger on top now. The other was gone. This route is not too good. Oct 10, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
On 1/14/10, the ASCA replaced the missing bolt at the anchor on this route with a 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece bolt. Jan 14, 2010
Don't feel bad about passing this one up. Feb 26, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
I second that emotion Mostafa. What a dud this was. Feb 26, 2012
Tristan Mayfield
SLC, UT
 
Tristan Mayfield   SLC, UT
 
While maybe not particularly inspiring, it does not warrant a bomb rating by any means. If you think it does, you need to go get some real choss education... or just chill out. Mar 2, 2018

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