All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > First Pullout (… > Newcastle Crag

The Boila

Name: The Boila
Rating: 2.4

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Newcastle Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Boila, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Broon, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Brown Ale S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Carrying Coals T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Deaf Elevated TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Full Sail S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Guinness S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Mission Accomplished TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	One the Only, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pale Ale S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unknown TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Warrantless Wiretap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	TR, 30 ft (9 m)
GPS:	36.15122, -115.43254
FA:	Jake Burkey, Mark Limage. 1999
Page Views:	2,404 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Owen Carver on Nov 20, 2009
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Technical smears and under-clings pull up to a slight over hanging layer of rock, pass the featured flakes to a horizontal crack and pull the last few holds to the anchor.

Rated the same as 'The Broon' in the black book, however, when these pics were taken, all 6 people in my group finished 'The Broon', but only two of us were able to complete this climb.

Location

Anchor is accessible by scrambling up the east side of the formation. The anchor rests 1.5' over the edge 10' east of the anchor for 'The Broon'. Have someone belay you to the anchor. (Or take much more time and use a .5 cam and small nut to create a safety anchor for yourself while you set up the top rope. See included images to see where I placed my protection.) Too dangerous to set the TR without a backup, unless you like hanging unprotected over cliff edges.