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Routes in Newcastle Crag

Boila, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broon, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Brown Ale S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Full Sail S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Guinness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mission Accomplished TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One the Only, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pale Ale S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warrantless Wiretap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: Jake Burkey, Mark Limage. 1999
Page Views: 1,141 total, 12/month
Shared By: Owen Carver on Nov 20, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Technical smears and under-clings pull up to a slight over hanging layer of rock, pass the featured flakes to a horizontal crack and pull the last few holds to the anchor.

Rated the same as 'The Broon' in the black book, however, when these pics were taken, all 6 people in my group finished 'The Broon', but only two of us were able to complete this climb.

Location

Anchor is accessible by scrambling up the east side of the formation. The anchor rests 1.5' over the edge 10' east of the anchor for 'The Broon'. Have someone belay you to the anchor. (Or take much more time and use a .5 cam and small nut to create a safety anchor for yourself while you set up the top rope. See included images to see where I placed my protection.) Too dangerous to set the TR without a backup, unless you like hanging unprotected over cliff edges.

Protection

Two bolts at top [w/ recently added bolt for safe anchor setup]. TR only.
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
There is now a good pro bolt (1/2") on top to anchor to when setting up this TR- look for it in a recess about 4' above the anchor. Jan 14, 2010