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Routes in Newcastle Crag

Boila, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broon, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Brown Ale S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Full Sail S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Guinness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mission Accomplished TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One the Only, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pale Ale S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warrantless Wiretap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 3,968 ft
GPS: 36.151, -115.433 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 6,377 total, 49/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Mar 2, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen
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Description

This wall is located almost exactly halfway between the first and second pullouts, and can be approached from either in about 15 minutes. The wall is located at the very bottom of the wash directly below the Ultraman Wall.

Variety of routes from moderate top-ropes to short 10+-11+ sport routes. Shady-- a nice spot to hide from the sun. Rock is chossy at the start and cleans up nicely the higher you go.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

Approach as for Ultraman wall. When you are standing in the wash looking up at Ultraman, the cliff is right behind you-climbs start directly from the wash.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Newcastle Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The One the Only
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Boila
TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Sail
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guinness
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The One the Only 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
The Boila 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Full Sail 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Guinness 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Newcastle Crag »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
The missing TR anchor has been replaced as of 1/14. Jan 15, 2010
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
This crag has cleaned up quite nicely. The wall with the 10's and 11's was a hidden gem. Jan 4, 2010
There are about 5 (5.8-5.9) routes on the left side of New Castle Crag about 30 feet to the left of the 5.10/11 routes. The easier wall may also be known as "Mark and Jake's Area". All routes are listed in the new Black Book.

Another way to think about getting there:
On the trail to Ultraman, once you descend into the wash, continue walking straight West-Northwest, instead of walking North towards the Ultraman wall. Look for the 4' wide 30' high passage between two massive rocks, the left side of the passage is the start of New Castle Crag.

TR Anchors:
Walk around to the SE end of the formation and just scramble/walk up it to the anchors. Nov 20, 2009

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