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Routes in Newcastle Crag

Boila, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Broon, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Brown Ale S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Full Sail S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Guinness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mission Accomplished TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One the Only, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pale Ale S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warrantless Wiretap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This wall is located almost exactly halfway between the first and second pullouts, and can be approached from either in about 15 minutes. The wall is located at the very bottom of the wash directly below the Ultraman Wall.

Variety of routes from moderate top-ropes to short 10+-11+ sport routes. Shady-- a nice spot to hide from the sun. Rock is chossy at the start and cleans up nicely the higher you go.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Approach as for Ultraman wall. When you are standing in the wash looking up at Ultraman, the cliff is right behind you-climbs start directly from the wash.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Newcastle Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
The One the Only
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
The Boila
TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 23
Full Sail
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
Guinness
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The One the Only
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
The Boila
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Full Sail
 23
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Guinness
 16
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Newcastle Crag »

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There are about 5 (5.8-5.9) routes on the left side of New Castle Crag about 30 feet to the left of the 5.10/11 routes. The easier wall may also be known as "Mark and Jake's Area". All routes are listed in the new Black Book.

Another way to think about getting there:
On the trail to Ultraman, once you descend into the wash, continue walking straight West-Northwest, instead of walking North towards the Ultraman wall. Look for the 4' wide 30' high passage between two massive rocks, the left side of the passage is the start of New Castle Crag.

TR Anchors:
Walk around to the SE end of the formation and just scramble/walk up it to the anchors. Nov 20, 2009
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
This crag has cleaned up quite nicely. The wall with the 10's and 11's was a hidden gem. Jan 4, 2010
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
The missing TR anchor has been replaced as of 1/14. Jan 15, 2010

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