Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.3 from 15
votes
Routes in Main Wall
|
|
285 Bandits, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Crystal Blue Persuasion V3 6A |
|
|
Cuckoo's Nest S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Fire on the Mountain S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
|
|
Fledgling, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Gangbusters S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Gangsta's Paradise S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Hidden Treasure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Highway Robbery S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Highwaymen, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Raid, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Rebels of the Rockies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Red Corner, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Reynolds Gang S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Reynolds Wrap S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Shootin' from the Hip S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Stick Them Up S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Sun's Out, Guns Out S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Swarm, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Treasure Huntin' S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Wanted Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 39.50868, -105.3692 |
| FA: | N. Brown, T. Wanish, G. Davis |
| Page Views: | 882 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Oct 16, 2022 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Closure: Fire Mitigation - Sept. 30 - Oct. 31, 2025
Details
Per: Zach Taylor #656, Park Manager, Staunton State Park
Starting September 30, 2025 through October 31 the following crags will be closed 7 days a week (per ryan laird) (not Monday through Friday) while forest fire mitigation work is underway:
- Dines Cliff
- Reynolds Wall
- The Raven
The Mason Creek Trail will be closed and a helicopter will be assisting the mitigation operations.
Starting September 30, 2025 through October 31 the following crags will be closed 7 days a week (per ryan laird) (not Monday through Friday) while forest fire mitigation work is underway:
- Dines Cliff
- Reynolds Wall
- The Raven
The Mason Creek Trail will be closed and a helicopter will be assisting the mitigation operations.
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
This is the overhanging extension to the "Cuckoo's Nest".
From the "Cuckoo's Nest" anchors, step up and left into the dihedral (higher is easier), and traverse left on thin holds to the "arete" and a glory jug. Continue up the bombay slot to a nice, airy stance and the lower-off anchor. This does not have the best rock in the world, but the climbing is super fun.
Note: linking this from the ground requires at least a 70m rope. If using a 70m, watch the ends carefully! Also, your rope runs surprisingly well if you sling a few of the bolts on "Cuckoo's Nest" with long runners.
6 Comments