Type: Trad, 25 ft (8 m)
GPS: 43.94733, -71.17748
FA: Ryan DeLena / Ben Maxfield - April 23, 2022
Page Views: 305 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ryan DeLena on Oct 4, 2022
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

A short route that feels very Barber Wall to me. Ben had done some cleaning on this and had multiple buddies try and fail due to conditions earlier in the spring to get the FA. He gifted me the lead after a day of climbing at Albany Slabs, and we drove to Valkerie and hiked up there to get it done. Apparently some of the other guys involved with route development originally wanted this to be a highball boulder, hence the name. You can give that crash pad away, it's a trad climb now.

Start with a wide undercling off the ground, moving right to a vertical layback flake. Layback a few moves to a fixed pin. Clip it, then step left and make a challenging mantel to the top of the flake. Clip a bolt out right, then make a committing reach to a great finish jug. Mantel and rap from a tree.

Location Suggest change

The crack with a wide start on the upper tier.

Protection Suggest change

A few cams, #4 helpful for the beginning, a pin and a bolt.

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