Type: Trad, 345 ft (105 m), 5 pitches
GPS: 46.5097, 12.0511
FA: Petrucci Smith, Da Col,. 1942
Page Views: 339 total · 7/month
Shared By: RKM on Sep 7, 2022
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description Suggest change

This is a combination of an old scary route with a modern sport pitch stuck on the middle.  Route starts about 50 feet left of via Olga.  Shallow chimney/crack with no obvious pro - 5.7.  A second pitch like the first but with some historic looking pins - 5.7.  Can supplement these two pitches with cams or stoppers.  These two pitches lead to a new set of long chains.  Steep crimpy face climbing up and left past 3 or 4 new bolts - 10+.  Hard part is about 20 meters and the rest of the third pitch is good climbing on good rock.  Follow vague arete going out right and to the summit.

Rap down the via Della Guide standard descent.  Three 30 meter raps and a walk around the tower back to packs.  Or, can rap the route from the top of the good climbing via barely reachable (with 60 meter rope) set of chains at a total hanging belay.

Location Suggest change

Torre Grande (Cima Ovest) West Face.  Left of and around the corner of the very popular and crowded via Della Guide.  Wall is covered with sport routes and in the shade.  Can drive up a little single lane road to the Rifugio Cinque Torri or take the chair life up to Rifugio Scoiattoli.  Quite the place on busy days.  Constant Drones flying overhead, helicopters flying around and so many climbers yelling in so many languages.  

Protection Suggest change

Old pins on all pitches except new bolts on crux pitch three.

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