Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bianchi, Menardi, 1944
Page Views: 206 total · 10/month
Shared By: RKM on Sep 6, 2022
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Starts in a dihedral/chimney nearly vertical and one long (160’) pitch to bushes.  You can go further east and climb easier 4th class and end up at the same spot - but the first two or one long pitch is some of the best rock on the route.  There are cemented pegs and green paint to follow.  Several hard spots mixed with exposed traverses and easier rope lengths.  A polished chimney at mid height was a struggle (for me).  The last pitches are superb and end at a grassy summit anchor with rosary beds.  

Location Suggest change

Park at Ristorant Da Strobel and walk up the switchback trail to the WW1 field hospital.  Best to walk along the rock base, passing Col dei Bos/Degli Alpini via Ferrat, past via en Coulisse until you reach a big cone shaped talus slope (can see from the road).  Just past this is the deep dihedral start.

Descend by two options.  Going back west puts you in the loose gully system coming from the via Ferrata.  Shorter but hard on knees.  You can also follow a good trail east to the col between Tofana which hooks up with the old military road and comes out at a parking area a couple of miles below where you parked.  Have the young guns retrieve the car and you stroll down the road to be picked up.

Protection Suggest change

Many cemented rings, threads and pins.

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