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Routes in Col dei Bos (Cima Bois)

Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 12 pitches
FA: S. Alvera and L. Menardi 13 July 1947
Page Views: 1,540 total, 21/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Nov 21, 2011
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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9 Opinions

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Description

The route is fairly obvious and aims towards a prominent chimney several pitches up the face. Entering the chimney is the first crux of the route and is UIAA Grade V+, or Yosemite Decimal System 5.7/5.8. As one ascends the ever narrowing face, the options are decreasing, until the crest of the arete is reached. Stay left towards the top of the route. The rock is decently solid, and opportunities for protection are also good. The descent is a walk off and ramble downhill from the col to parking area.

Location

The route begins at the far right of the triangular face and traverses an easy ledge towards the center of the formation

Protection

Mostly fixed protection; bring a light rack and extra runners.

Photos

Martin Bennett
Manchester, UK
  5.7+
Martin Bennett   Manchester, UK
  5.7+
At the top, instead of continuing all the way left up the left leaning gully we climbed a wide crack (face climbing on the edges) direct to the top. Improcves the line without altering the grade. Undoubtedly often climbed though no mention in our guide book. Nov 4, 2012
Dustin B
Steamboat
  5.7+
Dustin B   Steamboat
  5.7+
To find the start of this route look for a threaded cord about 35 feet above ground, above a ledgy ramp leaning to the left.

Also, it's best not to leave packs at the start of the route, it adds quite a bit of hiking at the end of the day.

Great route, a fun ramble with great views and comfortable belays. Jul 11, 2012
After doing a little more research, I found that this climb (misnamed) is listed in the Classic Dolomite Climbs guidebook by Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel as Route # 41. Their grade confirms the harder grade of V+, which converts to YDS grade of 5.7/5.8. The concensus here is 5.7+ which seems to be right on the mark. Dec 7, 2011
The Antonio Berti guide published by Club Alpino Italiano gives the route a Grade V rating; this translates to ~5.6-5.7. My experience on the route leans towards a higher rating. This is nice climb, and takes 3-4 hours to complete the route. The descent is fairly easy. This is a distinct step up in difficulty from many of the easier climbs in the Cinque Torre, such as the Torre Barancio North Face. Nov 22, 2011