Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 525 ft (159 m), 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Dave Rone, Jon Jugenheimer March 2020
Page Views: 73 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Aug 1, 2022
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route

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A true adventure route, Seige Tactics required three days of effort to complete. The first two days consisted of placing bolts for running belays while traversing 600m across the steep slope at the base of the Lyell Wall. Deep snow necessitated snowshoes for travel, and high winds along with fresh snow each night meant breaking a new trail in the morning. Description is based on FA conditions.

P1:  50m, WI5.   30m of steep ice leads to a shoulder, and a belay on the right.

P2:  50m, WI4.   Climb to a belay on the left.

P3:  60m, WI6+  Climb 45m of very steep, sustained, difficult ice, until the angle eases off for the final 15m.  This pitch was very wet, with funky ice structures, and was climbed by headlamp on the FA.  

Location and Approach

Location: Seige Tactics is on the far left side of the Lyell Wall, and half the battle is just getting there.

Approach: ***All Aspects of the approach are subject to high avalanche hazard*** 

Ascend the steep slope to the base of the Lyell Wall, coming out just to the climber's right of the Fossen Falls route.  Begin a leftward traverse, staying high.  There are bolts for running belays across the traverse, but the first bolt is out about 80m.  After traversing about 500m you will come to a drop off into a deep gulley.  Rappel 10m into the gully, leaving a fixed line for the way out. Climb steep snow up and left out of the gulley to a bolt, then continue left to another bolt.  From here, another 10m rappel gets you to the start of the route.

Note: You'll want a rope capture device such as a Petzl mini-traxion to ascend your fixed line out of the gulley.


Bolts for running belays on the approach, screws for the route