Satiata
WI6
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, Ice, Alpine, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Dave Rone & Jon Jugenheimer 2020 |
Page Views: | 805 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Double J on May 22, 2020 · Updates |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Description
Satiata is an awesome line that will require you to employ many tricks of the ice climbing trade! Begin by climbing 100m of steep but easy snow (avalanche prone) to the start of the first pitch.
P1: 30m Ice and snow. Climb a 15m stepped curtain of somewhat consolidated ice, followed by 15m of snow to the base of a deep slot.
P2: 45m, M5 R. The real climbing begins with this pitch. It starts out with a steep, poorly protected 20m pile of frozen gravel, that eventually gives way to fun ice, ending with a belay in cave in the back of the slot.
P3: 45m, WI 4-. A fun pitch that starts out on steep, thin ice followed by some bumps, ending in a deep cave in the back of the slot. As you climb this pitch, try not to think too much about the impossible looking ice looming above!
P4: 50m, WI 6. A wild, improbable, pitch of ice! The ice seeps through, and hangs from, a wide cleft in a 5m roof. On the FA there was a lot of good ice in the back of the cave, but it barely touched down where the climbing started. Climb a fragile icicle as high as possible to thick ice at the cleft. Traverse left, delicately, placing good screws as high as possible. At the lip of the overhang, reach around to the ice in front, and move up while stemming against the rock. Get as high as possible, place a screw, and then commit to overhanging ice in front, which goes to vertical after a few meters, and then eases off for the last 30m.
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