5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British C1
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||FKA Jacob Sidorin and GB, 7/23/22|
|Page Views:||80 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||George Bracksieck on Jul 25, 2022|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
This route climbs a giant flake that is separated by a wide crack from a left-facing dihedral. Jacob led pitch one, which climbs a crack system that gradually steepens and widens until it ends after about 140 feet and difficult chimneying (5.8++). He built a gear anchor.
Pitch two is an intimidating puzzle. It begins by stepping down and traversing right to a horizontal seam. I reached farther down and right to shove in a #4, which I extended with a long sling. Pulling on a shallow offset Mastercam allowed a long reach to a #1 placement in a horizontal. Pulling on it reached a short, vertical handcrack. I pulled on gear, and I guess that freeing this section would be reachy, committing 5.10. From its top, traverse right, passing beneath a big overhang and following a horizontal crack around the corner, into a chimney/gully.
After untying, we scrambled to the top of the big chimney. We scrambled in zigzags, eastward and down to Gem Lake, which is really a picturesque pond.
Start about 50 feet left of Squeezeasy.