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Routes in Gem Lake Wall

Cleft, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Exemplary Behavior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left of Cleft T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nameless Dihedral V0 4
Squeezeasy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Description

This is an obvious, short, wide swath of granite that lies above and east of Gem Lake. It may have other names. The rock is shorter on its northern end and rises to near 300 feet on its southern end. Climbers have infrequently ventured onto these faces. There is room for exploration.

The taller face can be divided by 3 main chimneys into 4 main faces.

There are scramble offs of the northern middle and northern face going to the north and hooking up with the trail. There is a scramble off for the southern-most face going to the south and into a brushy gully between this rock and the shorter rock just to the south.

I just heard from Greg Sievers that he put in a 5.9+ route there back a while. Also, I heard that Scott Kimball spent a bit of time there.

L->R:

A. Squeezeasy, 9- PG-13, 3p, 330', gear.
B. Left of Cleft, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.
C. The Cleft, 9-, 2p, 170', gear.
D. Exemplary Behavior, 9, 2p, 240', gear.
Season raptor closures Details

Getting There

From the Lumpy Ridge trailhead, hike out the eastern trail towards Gem Lake. At ~0.5 miles, you T with the Black Canyon trail. Head east (right) and follow the trail another 1.3 miles to this crag with a net gain of ~1100'. You will see this rock from the trailhead / parking lot. You will get better views from Paul Bunyon's Boot. You can also see this rock from Pulpit Rock and McGraw Ranch. Also, you can see the parking lot from the summit.

5 Total Climbs

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Cool to see this. I've looked at these routes for decades. Couple years ago, I found someone to visit with me. Ross Swanson and I did a couple routes, of which I posted a photo on this page. Dec 15, 2012

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