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Routes in Gem Lake Wall
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Cleft, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Commendable Conduct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Exemplary Behavior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gem Flake T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Gondwanaland T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Left of Cleft T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Nameless Dihedral V0 4 |
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Squeezeasy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Armin Gooden, Deb Thompson, LP? |
| Page Views: | 914 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Aug 17, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is an obvious line on the left middle face of Gem Lake Wall. It certainly could have been climbed previously. If it is your route, let me know and I'll fix it.
From a distance, the right side of this modest wall has some prominent chimneys. As you look closer, you see a few discontinuous lines and a pair of cracks on the left middle face. This line is the right of these two crack. Its off-verticality adds to its climbability at a reasonable grade. This line is generally much more sustained than Exemplary Behavior and thus probably deserves its 2.2 stars.
P1. Start of less-than-beautiful rock to gain the obvious crack. Dance up the crack until it gets wide ~100' up. Then you can do some offwidthing or face climbing around the offwidth. Belay on the left on a decent stance. Double #1 - #3 Camalots are useful. 5.7, 130'.
P2. This pitch starts off in your face with some 5.8 crack. Move up into a pod below the squeeze / offwidth. A #1 Camalot below and a tricky yellow Alien on the right at the crux make it feel doable. Bigger folks may have to face climb around this squeeze section. Slender folks may get deeper to the point where one's helmet may get in the way. A #3.5 Camalot comes in handy above the crux. You may be so relieved to conquer the crux that you don't place any more gear until the belay, but there are placements. 5.9 PG-13, 100'.
P3. You may (we did) belay a 5.5 exposed section to get to the top of the formation and belay behind a thread. 5.5, 50'.
To descend, we scrambled with climbing shoes on east-north-eastward to gain a ramp that led skier's left. Cross a chimney. Continue northward quite a ways until you get cliffed by the far north end of the Gem Lake Wall. There is one spot where we jumped down to a ledge. You may figure out a downclimb down the north face, but we headed down a 3rd class gully eastward until you are within a short distance of the trail.
From a distance, the right side of this modest wall has some prominent chimneys. As you look closer, you see a few discontinuous lines and a pair of cracks on the left middle face. This line is the right of these two crack. Its off-verticality adds to its climbability at a reasonable grade. This line is generally much more sustained than Exemplary Behavior and thus probably deserves its 2.2 stars.
P1. Start of less-than-beautiful rock to gain the obvious crack. Dance up the crack until it gets wide ~100' up. Then you can do some offwidthing or face climbing around the offwidth. Belay on the left on a decent stance. Double #1 - #3 Camalots are useful. 5.7, 130'.
P2. This pitch starts off in your face with some 5.8 crack. Move up into a pod below the squeeze / offwidth. A #1 Camalot below and a tricky yellow Alien on the right at the crux make it feel doable. Bigger folks may have to face climb around this squeeze section. Slender folks may get deeper to the point where one's helmet may get in the way. A #3.5 Camalot comes in handy above the crux. You may be so relieved to conquer the crux that you don't place any more gear until the belay, but there are placements. 5.9 PG-13, 100'.
P3. You may (we did) belay a 5.5 exposed section to get to the top of the formation and belay behind a thread. 5.5, 50'.
To descend, we scrambled with climbing shoes on east-north-eastward to gain a ramp that led skier's left. Cross a chimney. Continue northward quite a ways until you get cliffed by the far north end of the Gem Lake Wall. There is one spot where we jumped down to a ledge. You may figure out a downclimb down the north face, but we headed down a 3rd class gully eastward until you are within a short distance of the trail.
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