PRINT: Rock Climb Gem Flake, Lumpy Ridge

Gem Flake

5.8+ C1, Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: FKA Jacob Sidorin and GB, 7/23/22
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Gem Lake Wall

Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24 Details

From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.

Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.

Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.

Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.

Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)

Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

This route climbs a giant flake that is separated by a wide crack from a left-facing dihedral. Jacob led pitch one, which climbs a crack system that gradually steepens and widens until it ends after about 140 feet and difficult chimneying (5.8++). He built a gear anchor.

Pitch two is an intimidating puzzle. It begins by stepping down and traversing right to a horizontal seam. I reached farther down and right to shove in a #4, which I extended with a long sling. Pulling on a shallow offset Mastercam allowed a long reach to a #1 placement in a horizontal. Pulling on it reached a short, vertical handcrack. I pulled on gear, and I guess that freeing this section would be reachy, committing 5.10. From its top, traverse right, passing beneath a big overhang and following a horizontal crack around the corner, into a chimney/gully.

After untying, we scrambled to the top of the big chimney. We scrambled in zigzags, eastward and down to Gem Lake, which is really a picturesque pond.

Location

Start about 50 feet left of Squeezeasy.

Protection

Doubles through #4, one 5, and one 6.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jacob at the belay.

Jacob starts pitch one.

Jacob, before removing his pack.

Gem Flake follows the crack separating the giant flake from the left-facing dihedral, left of a gray lichen streak. Pitch one ends at the top of the flake. Pitch two moves right and goes up a short…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Evan David
Taos, NM

Has this route been done free? Sep 26, 2024