| Type: | TR |
| GPS: | 42.75784, -84.75339 |
| FA: | David Hull |
| Page Views: | 545 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | glclimber 21 on Jun 15, 2022 |
| Admins: | glclimber 21, John Miller, Paul DeMay |
Description
Start on a pair of a good pockets and move up through a small crimp and into the "9" carving. Continue straight up pulling the ledge.
This climb has been around a long time and probably seen less than 15 sends as it just gets forgotten away from the main area, but it's a great technical climb.
History
Some time between 1990 and 2000 this route/problem changed course to presently going straight up the face. Originally, mid 80s, it climbed the start as currently shown, but at the seam traversed left into Frank's Climb/Problem. Per David Hull who climbed at Oak Park in mid 80s and snagged some FA's on this wall circa 1986 or so:
After working on this route for a couple years, I finally sent it in 1987 or 1988, prior to moving to California. I gave it its name because of the way the late evening light bounces off the river and creates undulating light patterns on the route a certain times of year. Also because one day working the route, I was clipping in with a locking ‘biner rather than tying in, and after multiple attempts, the rope somehow managed to unscrew the lock on my ‘biner, and when I came off the finishing moves, the loop went across the carabiner gate and came right off…I felt the knot go through my hand and realized I was off the rope, then I hit the ground, bounced twice, and rolled down to my wife’s feet as she stood there with the brake locked down. That caused me to reflect on not directly trying into to rope. I never again used locking ‘biners as a “tie-in”, a practice that was common at the ledges back then on busy days.
Also, note that the use of the "9" carving was a variation, the original route moved left on the main midway seam and used a horizontal pocket and a crimper edge to gain the top of the wall (the top of Frank’s Route). Which I thought to be a letter grade harder than the "9" variation. The 9 variation was called Turn Me On, Dead Man because Number 9, The Beatles, but this variation may have been sent before I did it.
After this was established, David and the "Ledge Rats" proceeded to tack on the tough traditional start of Frank's Climb to what was then the current Reflections running it straight up to the top.




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