Routes in Top Rope
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Alice's Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Almost Worthwhile TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Asinine Behavior TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Astral Projection TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beginner's Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Big e TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bingo Wings TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Buttress TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blowout TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Blue Suede Shoes TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brachiator TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Building Blocks TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Century Club TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Clean and Jerk TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cling On TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cold Turkey TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Conscientious Objection TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Contrived TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cowabunga TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Delusions TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Desperado TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Despondency TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Despondency Right TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Digititus aka Kinesis TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Disintigration TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Doug's Roof TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Enigma TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Extension TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fat Chance TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Finesse TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b V2 5+ |
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Frank's Climb TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Impasse TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Inappropriate Behavior TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Intergalactic Quaalude Trip TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Intimidator TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Karen's Direct TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Karen's Overhang TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Karen's Super Direct TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Keep on Truckin' TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Let Me Go Wild TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ludwig's Dude TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Material Implications TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mental Blocks TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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MLF TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mossy Gully TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Myalgia TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Myasthenia gravis (AKA Up Yours) TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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No Soap TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nose, The TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Not Another Day in Toledo TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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One For the Road AKA One Last Time TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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One Story Town TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Out of Control TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Peek-a-boo TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pigeon Shit TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Poison Ivy Jam TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Potato Chips TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Precious Little TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pretzel, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ragged Edge TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rated X TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Reflections TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Resistance, The TR 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rocket Man TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Romp, The TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Root Route TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Schism TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Second Thoughts TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slapstick Routine aka Hollywood TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Slim Chance TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Staircase TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Steppin' Out TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Steppin' Over TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Stretch Marks TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Technical Difficulties TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Terrarium TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Three Mules TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Trick, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ultimate Bushwack TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Victim of Circumstance TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Walk On By TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
Type: | TR |
FA: | David Hull |
Page Views: | 444 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | glclimber 21 on Jun 15, 2022 |
Admins: | glclimber 21, John Miller, Paul DeMay |
Description
Start on a pair of a good pockets and move up through a small crimp and into the "9" carving. Continue straight up pulling the ledge.
This climb has been around a long time and probably seen less than 15 sends as it just gets forgotten away from the main area, but it's a great technical climb.
History
Some time between 1990 and 2000 this route/problem changed course to presently going straight up the face. Originally, mid 80s, it climbed the start as currently shown, but at the seam traversed left into Frank's Climb/Problem. Per David Hull who climbed at Oak Park in mid 80s and snagged some FA's on this wall circa 1986 or so:
After working on this route for a couple years, I finally sent it in 1987 or 1988, prior to moving to California. I gave it its name because of the way the late evening light bounces off the river and creates undulating light patterns on the route a certain times of year. Also because one day working the route, I was clipping in with a locking ‘biner rather than tying in, and after multiple attempts, the rope somehow managed to unscrew the lock on my ‘biner, and when I came off the finishing moves, the loop went across the carabiner gate and came right off…I felt the knot go through my hand and realized I was off the rope, then I hit the ground, bounced twice, and rolled down to my wife’s feet as she stood there with the brake locked down. That caused me to reflect on not directly trying into to rope. I never again used locking ‘biners as a “tie-in”, a practice that was common at the ledges back then on busy days.
Also, note that the use of the "9" carving was a variation, the original route moved left on the main midway seam and used a horizontal pocket and a crimper edge to gain the top of the wall (the top of Frank’s Route). Which I thought to be a letter grade harder than the "9" variation. The 9 variation was called Turn Me On, Dead Man because Number 9, The Beatles, but this variation may have been sent before I did it.
After this was established, David and the "Ledge Rats" proceeded to tack on the tough traditional start of Frank's Climb to what was then the current Reflections running it straight up to the top.
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