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Routes in Left Side
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Peace Train S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rebel Yell S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rebels Sing The Blues T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Train Wreck S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 39.50885, -105.36975 |
| FA: | DL, GD, TL |
| Page Views: | 1,102 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Lawrence on Apr 10, 2022 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Closure: Fire Mitigation - Sept. 30 - Oct. 31, 2025
Details
Per: Zach Taylor #656, Park Manager, Staunton State Park
Starting September 30, 2025 through October 31 the following crags will be closed 7 days a week (per ryan laird) (not Monday through Friday) while forest fire mitigation work is underway:
- Dines Cliff
- Reynolds Wall
- The Raven
The Mason Creek Trail will be closed and a helicopter will be assisting the mitigation operations.
Starting September 30, 2025 through October 31 the following crags will be closed 7 days a week (per ryan laird) (not Monday through Friday) while forest fire mitigation work is underway:
- Dines Cliff
- Reynolds Wall
- The Raven
The Mason Creek Trail will be closed and a helicopter will be assisting the mitigation operations.
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
Moderate climbing at the start leads to steeper climbing up a short, red wall. Pull over the bulge to a stance, and continue up the featured pillar and corner. Fun, exposed moves take you to the top of the pillar.
A 70 meter rope is mandatory! Knot the end! This route will use every bit of the rope!
While runners aren't needed, longer draws on the lower bolts will keep rope drag down.
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