5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Trinidad Collier, Andrew Richardson Nov 2021|
|Page Views:||257 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Richardson on Nov 30, 2021|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
You & This Route
Your To-Do List:Add To-Do ·
Your Difficulty Rating:
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
The route wanders a bit, but there's some fun climbing to be had! The final pitch is not recommended for a brand new 5.8 leader.
P1: Follow lichen-y corner, but it's mostly face climbing. Protection is a bit sparse and footing can feel insecure due to the lichen, but it's easy climbing. Transitioning from the corner onto the face is likely the crux. 5.6 35-40m pitch
Move belay up series of ledges or extend the pitch further to the obvious cracks above
P2: Follow clean finger cracks with plenty of footholds on the face. More sustained climbing than P1 for about half the pitch, then it becomes an easy romp to liger ledge. 5.6 35ish meter
Once on the ledge, move belay/scramble left to the prominent dihedral. Nice bit of exposure here!
P3: Climb the corner, placing nuts and microcams in thin corner cracks to back up a nice .75 BD placement on the face. Rather than pull through the roof and potentially trundle oneself with a loose block, pull onto the face about 10 feet from the roof (crux). Fun movement on easy holds to the top! 5.8, 30m
Start at the base further left of Nerd Wall, requires a bit of scrambling to get to the beginning of the right-facing corner.